2011-04-03 Arbolí, Mas D’en Rei   Leave a comment

I didn’t like Mas D’en Rei the first time I tried it with Marc and Agusti some years ago.  It doesn’t please me much this time either.  Until I get high 7 / low 8 down, the good sector will remain on the pending list.  Meanwhile the ugly sector is where we find ourselves again.  It’s that bad I couldn’t even be bothered to open the guide book on my left to write the names of the routes.  Warm up on a 6a, which like everything else on the lower section is overgrown with brambles, grasses, weeds, I mean really.. this is a disgrace to the same region that boasts Matsutake.

After the 6a, we combo two pitches of a 5 and 6c.  The 6c is a 6c :– fine.  The 5 is ugly, hell, even the descent from the car was ugly.  Anyway, there is a nice roof problem on the 2nd pitch, and with some varied climbing I get it.  A nice combination of styles / techniques – that’s all that I can say about it.

Miquel flashes up a 6a, but with all the shrubbery in the way I tell him to clean it and I have a look at another two-pitch combo, 6a and 6c.

Just as I’m about to start, this wall of fog swoops in.  An omen, got to be.  Well… the 6a was, guess what?… Yeah fugly, and then I start to open the 6c section.  What a change!  Nice rock, nice moves, though it has to be said it wouldn’t even make as good as ‘normal’ in Siurana.  First problem – a 2-handed undercut up to a thin slab.  Then up to a tricky airy position that leads up to the crux, a layback that overhangs out and overhangs to the right.  Well, with no place for feet, I’m left floundering like a fish out of water.  Bail.

Toni tries it and gets as far as I did. A few attempts and back to the ground with the last bolt still left to clip.  This is a hard 6c.  Miquel has a go.  He hangdogs at the first problem, which frankly, I found 6a-ish.  OK, on he goes for the next problem.  He does it the same as Toni – direct up the middle, whereas I went under the roof to the right to gain height, then came back out onto the face.  Well, they all lead to Rome.  A couple of attempts and he’s being lowered down to the ground.  Reinforcements: Time to use the clip stick.  Armed with the telescopic clipper, he flashes back up to crux.  Having clipped in, he only needs to rest once more at the top of the layback before sending the last 5 meters to the belay.

Toni has a second try, with an extended draw up top.  A couple of rests and he tops out, but I have no interest in ticking it.  Clean the bitch.

6a, 5, 6c, 6a, 6c  Picasa


Posted 2011/04/03 by allend66 in Arboli, Rockclimbing

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