2011-04-04 Siurana, L’Herbolari   Leave a comment

Wow, what a great day this was.  We met in sunny Les Borges and drove up into cloud and cold.  I’d suggested L’Herbolari again because I have a few routes pending, but also because Miquel hadn’t climbed there before.  Once there, the sun slowly started to come out, and before we knew it, a full on scorching day… Gotta love Spain.

Toni flew up the 6a+ project (unnamed) veering left instead of right at the end.  We followed this with the other new 6a+ project to the left.  A beauty.  Ok, time to work:  The 6c Aqui Hi Ha Marro.  I don’t tell Toni anything crucial about this – see if he makes the same mistake as I did 2 days ago.  This is a difficult route, more like 6c+, but he gets to terrace ‘plaza Cataluña’ two-thirds the way up OK and rests up before the roof crux.  Unfortunately things don’t go well.  Bridging over onto the 5 on the corner wall, he gets over the bulge after hangdogging.  Hmmmm.  Miquel, you’re up.

Miquel also makes fine progress on the thin crimps on the lower section up to the terrace.  He too hangdogs after looking for the same non-existent holds I looked for over the bulge – just a little short of the answer!  Success after a couple of tries.

Deep breathing… relax… I set out and get up to the terrace.  I had a good look up at the roof, and now that I know what to look for and more importantly where to look for it, I can just see it.  Easily missed. After resting for a short breath I start up and, on one super thin flake at the start of the sequence under the roof, loose my footing – but get it back quickly though all the time losing time and strength.  Hand up, steady, clip, shallow two-finger to alter feet, deep two finger, alter feet some more, deep high pocket, feet up and clear.  Breathing heavily now, thankfully it’s just deep pocket after deep pocket to the belay.  Explosive.

Toni goes up again to clean the route.  Miquel next has a look at a 6a+ on the south facing wall and having done it on Saturday I tell him to strip it.

I’m going to get in on the 6b Romani that I have untried.  It looks nice save for the start, and I encounter the crux one third the way up.  There’s plenty of chalk, and it looks fairly obvious – more for the vast slab of featureless rock in front of your face than the white paw prints from past adventurers to either side.  I make a foolish mistake.  I have my hand slightly higher than the chalking and feel the rock very sharp, but I continue.  With feet moved, more of my weight is on the sharp point digging into my 3rd finger but still I don’t change it, then it cuts into me, I loose my footing then plummet.  An easy onsight blown.  Oh well, just enjoy the yoga-like moves up to the belay 20 meters away.

The 7a Cojon Prieto still evading me, a return trip is likely soon…

6a+, 6a+, 6c, 6b Picasa


Posted 2011/04/04 by allend66 in L'Herbolari, Siurana

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