2011-04-07 La Mussara, Primitiu   Leave a comment

Or “Adventures in Rock-climbing #1

We had planned on going to Isabel, soak up some shade now that the temperatures are getting higher, but Maurici & Xell bailed, so Meli & myself, not knowing how to get there, went to Primitiu.  At 4:30pm it was in shade.  Using a 60-metre rope, I get up Laia – the 6a that’s more like a 6b/+.  Had to veer off left to the belay, not having enough rope to run up to the top as before.  From the 4th bolt up this is a great climb, but the bottom section’s polished.  Many people have started and abandoned it when they realise the grading is clearly wrong.

Well, there are some routes in the middle of the wall as yet untried, so I have a look at Scala Dei, 6a.  Wow – what a beauty.  I take up 12 draws with me and tied into the 60mtr rope check in the guide that all the routes are from 18-30 metres.  I make good progress up some fine rock, not polished and clean.  I get to a bulge, where there should be a belay, but there isn’t one.  Oh well, keep on going.  Meli shouts up “You’re half way on the rope” and I still have nearly 10 metres to climb!  At this point I run out of quickdraws, so I have to miss out two bolts and trust in the force.

I reach the belay after a thin piece of slab that doesn’t have much, and clip into my emergency HMS – there only being a ring on the chain.  I shout to Meli to tie a knot in the end of the rope to not pass through the Gri-Gri, and lower me down slowly.  He reaches the end of the rope and I’m left hanging at the 4th clip.  I clip into the bolt to make myself safe and tell Meli to take me off belay, then pull then rope through.  I then pass the rope through the draw on the bolt, and using my Wild Country Variable Ascender rappel down the last 10 metres, clipping in as I pass each bolt.  Phew!

Lucky we have a 70 metre rope in the car!  I double-time it back to the parking and when I return Meli is ready to climb.

“Take a couple draws with you..” I say.  “Why?”  “Because the last 2 bolts before the belay don’t have draws in them”…

After oh-so nearly onsighting it, Meli tops out but can’t open the screwgate.  It never rains but it pours…  After fannying about for 10 minutes, I finally lower him to the ground.

Looking at me with awe, he says “Hostia, dos chapas perdidas y un auto-rescate… como un profesional!” to which I reply “¡Esto es Esparta!”

Round off the evening with spectacular views of the sunset on Gandalf El Gris, 5+.

6a, 6a, 5+

Posted 2011/04/08 by allend66 in La Mussara, Primitiu, Rockclimbing

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