2011-04-17 Siurana, Can Parásit   2 comments

Siurana is getting beyond a joke now on weekends.  Guiris, domingueros, gente.  They’ve even implemented a trial period parking attendant to manage the too little space for too many cars.  At the moment without charge, let’s just see if it lasts…  The day they charge to park your car is the day I stop going.

Up to Can Parásit to tick a few more routes.  I’ve been here before but I hadn’t ever set foot on the first route of the day, a pumpy 6a+ La Marabunta.  I should have done this second because after the punishment yesterday, I got pumped really quickly.  Then I repeated a nice 6a La Viuda Negra.  6b+ territory now with the slightly polished but excellent Kagarro Malababa.  I just missed the onsight, even with the good rest up top just before the final roof.

Roger was working a 7a at the end of the wall El Caganer Del Ruc.  Toni had a try on it and hangdogged a few times, and it looked difficult.  The start is a sequence of thin reachy block moves.  After I lower him down from the top I try it.  With the rope clipped up to the 2nd I worm my way up past the first crux which I simply couldn’t get past while pumped.  The next clip was strange, awkward positioning and balance, then up a vertical slab with a few pockets.  The next crux foiled my first 3 attempts and getting super-pumped, I dynoed Chris Sharmer-style up to the the lip… Toni was amazed.

El Caganer Del Ruc, 7a

After a long rest, Joan had left open the recommended 6c+ (“Best route in the sector – more like a 7a than 6c+”) Ma Mola Molt.  The first overhang is a little polished, reachy and blocky, but after that it is one joyous hold after another.  At 30 meters long, you need stamina to flash it but there are great moves – just thinking about it makes me smile.  And balance… you feel exposed at times pulling off some moves to the next hold, but it has everything, undercuts, crimps, pockets, monofingers, this is quality with a capital qual.  In contrast to yesterday when I reached up to the next hold and repeated “Uff! Es mala”  today was “Oh! Es buenissima!”.  What my posse call ‘Thank God Holds’.

6a+  6a  6b+  7a  6c+  Picasa


Posted 2011/04/18 by allend66 in Can Parásit, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2 responses to “2011-04-17 Siurana, Can Parásit

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  1. Hola que tal………..bueno el articulo. Un gran dia d’escalada!!!!!! salut

    Roger ( Alforja )

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