2011-04-20 Siurana, L’Herbolari & Can Melafots   Leave a comment

Alvaro has never been to L’Herbolari, so Can Parásit and the super lovely 6c+ I have to repeat is backburnered.  There are still a couple of routes I still need to tick here, so no problem about returning, it is after all a fantastic sector.  Alvaro opens Farigola, 6a.  The start’s a bit naff with the tree in the way, but it’s motorway driving all the way.  Nice.  Then onto the new 6a+ Project that isn’t in the new Siurana guide, and Alvaro finds his groove.  Strange weather today… one minute it’s cloudy and windy, then sunny, cold, hot, then a little fog.

Now the 6b Romaní that threw me off last time, denying the onsight.  Get the redpoint this time, not only that but climb it only touching rock from the floor to the belay – no tree that everyone else uses up to the first clip.  Pfft, amateurs.  The crux beat Alvaro as it did me the first time, but get the feet up and pass the thin slab, then it’s pure disfrutona all the way.

Some more people arrive, and after trying the horrible chimney in the corner and another 6a Azukiki (that I have pending) they struggle on the grand Aquí Hi Ha Marro 6c and Cojón Prieto 7a, meanwhile the recommended Hansel i Gretel 6c is our next, and it’s new too so the adhesion is maximum.  Wow, what a route!  I’m not going to write too much, sorry Marc, no clues here!

Hansel i Gretel, 6c

Time for lunch and to decamp up to Can Melafots.  Alvaro has a buddy in the vicinity so we might hook up.  The wind is blowing down Melafots and it is cold.  After lunch we’re cold and stiff but we leap onto the 6b Perseidas.  It has a tough start.  Then the last climb before we freeze up, the funky 6c Gat Reggae.  Very nice, but cleaning the route is a mare.  Some good moves on this diagonal running route.  A good day.

6a  6a+  6b  6c  6b  6c  Picasa

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