2011-04-28 La Mussara, Aritjol & Isabel   Leave a comment

After the scorching in El Cremat yesterday, we head for morning shade in Aritjol even though it turns out to be misty, slightly cloudy and even chilly when not climbing.  After being given some dodgy beta (thanks Miquel – I owe you one…) I warm up on A Hi Ha De Tot, 6b.  Now with forearms inflated I’m wrecked for a while.  Annoyingly I just miss the onsight by 5cms.  Meanwhile, Miquel & Jacob hog Sonrisas y Lagrimas, 6a+.  Leaving the 6b open for later, Alvaro wisely wants to warm up on something easier – Rantanplan, 6a.  Tricky start but a great route with some alpine style climbing.  The rock here is super adhesive, in my opinion the grading is a little low, so when the rock becomes more polished over time and the routes get even harder… typical La Mussara!

The arrival of Ivan gives me more time to deflate those damn forearms, and he quickly sends the 6a, then I clean it.  Alvaro now on point,  Sonrisas y Lagrimas, 6a+ is next.  A nice route and in keeping with most of the routes here – ‘interesting’.  After Ivan & I onsight this, Alvaro then sends the 6b I originally opened.  Nicely done.  Ivan gets on it and also flashes it – nice.

The other two have left a nice 6b+ open, Sandruska.  Since I don’t repeat the 6b, I have first crack at this beauty.  Before I get to the good stuff up top, I make a silly mistake and fall on the first problem.  I didn’t place my feet well, and plaff!  Annoyed, I repeat the move but putting my feet a little higher and all is good – up to the first shitty hold: a super shallow mono-finger sloper.  From there there’s another crappy hold up to the killer sequence.  While slightly overhanging, a side crimp flake, a nice right-hand nub, left hand up to the crappy sloper pocket, right hand almost-bombproof undercut, left hand up to a jug.  Wow!  Excellent stuff.  A shame I fell earlier and lost the onsight, this is definitely the crux, and I nailed it first time.

Miquel offers to belay me on the previously tried (and abandoned) Les Aparences Enganyen, 6c.  Now the sequence has been worked out, kudos Jacob, I get it on the 2nd try.  Interesting move sequence half way up.  Now the time is getting on and the sun has arrived on the rock, so we pack up and move to Isabel.

Miquel & Jacob try L’Amadeu, 6c.  There has been a rock fall here and sadly some of the routes have been destroyed.  We were going to try the 6b+ right of L’Amadeu but now the first bolt is some 6-8 meters high and the lower ramp is like glass.  Instead we try a 30mtr 6c El Buit No Existeix.  There’s two cruxes on this, the first a blank slab and the second a terrace/roof problem.  Although the rock is brilliantly adhesive.  We finish the day with a warm down 6a+ Flor Del Desitg.  There’s a lot of work to be done here in Isabel – we’ll return soon.

6b  6a  6a+  6b+  6c  6c  6a+  Photos


Posted 2011/04/28 by allend66 in Aritjol, Isabel, La Mussara

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