2011-04-30 Siurana, Espero Primavera & Siuranella Est   Leave a comment

A great day climbing today in Espero Primavera.  I meet Eoin and his English / Irish / French posse at Fontescaldes parking.  Intermittent sun & cloud – more sun than cloud, we enjoy the climbing at the right hand edge, towards Can Aprop.  We warm up on Records Oblidats, 6b – fine & crimpy but nothing strenuous, giving me the first onsight of the day.  Eoin seemed to struggle with it but sometimes the chalk trail deceives.  Then we move onto Pelandruska, 6b.  Difficult start, but a jugfest after and superb climbing up to the anchor – onsight number 2, really pleasurable.  Now we’ve warmed up, 6b+ Berberechín Fibrao tests with the overhanging start.  It’s really just to the third clip – after that it joins with a 5+ next to it so is easy, but the first half is 6b+.  As with all overhangs, precise movements and a little speed in pushing up are the tools you need.  Onsight number 3.

We move over to the other end of the wall at the left hand side towards El Cargol.  We choose another 6b+ Lamparós Toca El Dos.  Eoin falls 3 times, one of which was by the next clip without clipping – a beauty.  This pumpy line is my 4th onsight, with the crux over half way up – a diagonal flared crack which I manage to layback to get over it.  Above this big jugs.  Both pumped, we break for lunch.

The fifth climb is a 6c – Volta i Volta.  This was maddening – I fell just before the first clip, the bottom being a little polished.  I tell Eoin to lower me down to the ground where I start again (onsight already lost).  I then cleanly send it without other problems.  It’s a very ‘reachy’ route and the crack you follow is sometimes good, sometimes bad.  Nice but hard climbing.  Redpoint salvaged.

The others have gone over to Siuranella Est so we pack up and schlep over there.  Some ‘rock stars’ are filming in La Olla, something difficult looking.  Up the via ferreta and we join the others.  Delfin is on a nice 6b, but I choose another 6c, Pocapena.  Really pumpy and overhanging, this is great climbing.  Up past the first overhang then onto half decent holds.  Progress up to a really nice undercut – but watch your hand sequence – to another undercut and side pull over the bulge.  Really pumped I make the last clip running on fumes.  I know my mistake… I side pulled to right hand clip the last bolt when I should have pushed up over the last vertical bit… two monofingers up to a gentle ramp then the anchor.  Maybe if I hadn’t fumbled clipping the rope I could have onsighted, as it is I blew it and fell.  This would also have been on onsight earlier in the day when I were feeling fresher.  Oh well, what’s the difference?  Onsight, redpoint, working a route?  I climb because I love climbing.

Ramadán, 8b

The uppity stars arrive (or more accuretely the rock stars and the uppity photographer) to do an 8b ( Ramadán ) next to where we are.  The photographer tells us they’re in the English climbing squad, though she can’t stick the ending and falls.  We just have enough time, patience, energy, and skin left on our fingertips to finish the day with a nice smooth 6b Mucho Papito that Delfin was on earlier.  This was my 5th onsight – though I’m not counting, and it was beautiful.  A really nice move sequence half way up to rise and traverse to the right.  A great cool-down climb.  Fresh pineapple on the way back to the car, very tired, and very satisfied.

6b  6b  6b+  6b+  6c  6c  6b  Photos


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