2011-06-11 Siurana, Can Sumera   2 comments

We were looking for a nice easy sector, as I’m still recouping form and I don’t want to overexert my precious ankle.  After the last time in Siurana, with the usual stop off in the cafeteria to update the guide book, I remembered there was a line of new routes with comfortable grade at Can Sumera, located more or less in between El Ditot and Grau Dels Masets Abaix.

When we got there, there were two mounting ropes hanging down and there was a lot of drill dust on some more new routes that weren’t there a couple of weeks ago!  We tried to orientate ourselves and decided the newest routes looked doable so we got stuck in.

Using the updated topo, Number 32, 6a was an easyish first climb, but it was dirty.  Once this sector has been cleaned it will be a classic.  The rock being new is also of maximum adhesion.  Excellent climbing. #33, 5+ looked easier than the next route to the left, and we both sent it cleanly.  Again, very dirty, but very nice.  Next we have a look at #31, 6b.  I guessed this was a 6b when I had a look at it when stripping #32, there being a reachy pass lower down.  Marc had a crack at it first, and doing a left leg ‘bicicleta’ tried to get past the crux, but couldn’t.  2nd attempt at the same move got it.  When I tried it, instead of an Egyptian, I opened my legs more finding a small ledge for right foot and right arm block to reach up – couldn’t stick it.  2nd attempt got it for me too, using a small pissant temporary hold before the vertical crack.  Further to the left, #30, 6b looked nice with big jugs, and we both sent it first time.  Really nice climbing here, with only partial chalking.

We break for lunch then start on the original new routes to the left of the wall.  #24, 6b is first and I complain to Marc that he’s throwing down lots of crap.  He onsights it but when I try it, I get to the final couple of moves and pull off a guidebook-sized slab of rock.  “PIEDRA!” I shout as I manage to recover balance and stop myself falling.  The flake breaks up hitting the wall on the way down and narrowly misses my belayer.  I move over to the left and take a side pull with my right and as I move my left the hold breaks away and I plummet 4 metres.  As I start to fall I shout out again “Piedra!” then shout out “No, DEREK!”.  Marc arrests my fall (eventually!) after taking cover from the other breakage coming down.  The fall though clean left me with a rope burn on my leg including the recovering ankle and forearm, and scratches on my forearms.  These routes are very nice but they’re all new, dirty and unstable.

#28, 6b+ is next and it’s thin.  I take a rest on it though Marc onsights it.  Marc went right, I went left in the middle of the wall.  There’s a shallow 2 finger pocket that was pinching my fingertip and I couldn’t stick it.  That’s another thing with all this new rock… it’s sharp as hell.

#29, 6a+ at the end has been downgraded from 6b.  It’s juggy, and there’s no shortage of holds, though the first move is difficult.  I couldn’t start it properly, but was glad when Marc lowered me back down to get the redpoint.

#23, 6a to finish the day – my fingertips are in pain.  I open it though it isn’t obvious.  As Marc said, with all the black stuff on the rock, it’s sometimes difficult to see where the holds are.  We pack up to get to Goma II before it closes to buy some more stuff.  What a great day.

 

6a   5+   6b  6b   6b   6b+  6a+   6a   Photos

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Posted 2011/06/11 by allend66 in Can Sumera, Rockclimbing, Siurana

2 responses to “2011-06-11 Siurana, Can Sumera

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  1. Bones vies que podrem disfrutar en la solitud de les tardes d’estiu,mentres no les coneiguin gaires guiris de fora Maspu.

  2. Pingback: 2011-07-05 Siurana, Can Sumera « English Oracle II

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