2011-06-13 Siurana, Grau Dels Masets   Leave a comment

Lovely cloud!  Quite the opposite from England, where you’re plagued with cloud and you prey for sun (or at least for it to stop raining).

We decided on El Corralet, but after seeing the dodgy belay ledge we changed to Grau Dels Massets Camí.  A quick warm up on El Trinxant, 5+ with swift sending of Baronia De Cabacés, 6a and El Show Dels “Teleñecos”, 6a+

Álvaro wanted to try a couple of routes with shared anchors, a 6b+ and 7a and I was game for it.  I want to push back up the scale and get my form back.  From the get-go he fought Rebuscat, 6b+, making the first horrible clip then the second, which quite frankly was a complete mother.  Hangdog.  In the old guidebook it’s a 6c – correct.  Well, at least the name’s accurate.  Bit of a zigzag up the wall on this one, looking for the next hold.  I try it and get to the same horrible crux between the 2nd & 3rd.  I clip the 3rd after hangdogging and go back down to try it again.  Fugly.  I hang a second time at the next crux – it appears that two holds have broken off, triangles of clean cream rock surrounded by grey.  Maybe this was a 6b+, maybe not.  I didn’t like it much and mount the 7a on the way down.

Els Hi Agrada?, 7a is fine and fingery, and Álvaro struggles on it resting several times.  I don’t even bother!  “Strip it!” I call up and we break for lunch.

There was a funny smell at Camí, so we moved over to Grau Dels Masets Esquerra, where I have a couple of 6b onsights targeted.  We were getting tired, Alvaro asked about Súper Esperó, 6b that Marc sent with style (“No debes perderla.. es buena”) but I didn’t want the day’s last climb to be that damn corner 5+ next to it ( Súper Fisura ), cramping up my hips.  I head up right to the start of the wall.  Piu Piu, 6b looked nice and I have first crack.  An awkward start, thin holds and an ants’ nest half way up in the good handhold made this a challenge, but it is a beauty.  Onsight for me, flash for Álvaro.

Piu Piu, 6b

Getting really tired now, the last climb & I choose the other 6b, Charlie III.  Superb name, superb route.  The start was a little polished and tough (shared with Llastra, 6a) but 2nd clip and up a joy.  Another sweet onsight to round off a great day!  On the way home, fog in Arbolí    Smile

 

5+   6a   6a+   6b+   6b   6b

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Posted 2011/06/13 by allend66 in Grau Dels Masets, Siurana

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