2011-06-24 La Mussara, Primitiu & Roure   Leave a comment

The morning after the night before.  Or rather the early afternoon after the night before.  I meet Eoin at 1ish and we head up to La Mussara.  Eoin’s only climbed Siurana & Arbolí so I decided Isabel (shade) would be nice.  When we arrived it was clouding over, so we changed to Primitiu.  If the sun did come out again, it would only be for a couple of hours – it enjoying shade after 4pm.

Eoin quickly sends Alabama’s, 5 & Gandalf El Gris, 5+ and cleans them.  I warm up on a very nice onsight, 3-star, pumpy, 35 meter Philadelfia, 6a+.  One of the few remaining routes on this wall that I don’t know.  There’s a thin section half way, and of course it shares the top end of Scala Dei, 6a+.  This from the Rockfax guide: “Another striking crack […] Watch out for the technical pocket pulling on the top wall which makes it stiff for the grade.  Fantastic.”  I’d agree with that, Sir.  Eoin cleans up after me though not before falling at the initial veer right.  He’ll make up for it later.

Next route is another 3-star beauty, Castor, 6a+ and I’m making great progress till the end bulge.  I clip the last, can see the belay but the roof has no foot holds and I fall missing an onsight.  Grrrr!  Same story for Ireland.  We break for lunch.

Álvaro and his sister Patricia arrive.  They mop up the left hand side of the wall and Eoin onsights Laia, 6a+ (6a in the ‘Fax!) .  Kudos – after several attempts I’ve given up on redpointing it.  Next I look at Esperó De Tardor, 5 the first route on the next wall Roure.  The start is strange and the mid section looks like my terrace – flat with lots of weeds growing over it.  Still, good to just move and clip, move and clip.  Wisely Eoin bails but I leave it open for the other two.  Eoin opens Doll De Lluna, 6a with Lacónia, 6a as an extension.  A rope rethread is needed but easy enough.  I get on the route and Álvaro & Pati marchan.  I have half his draws from leaving mine on the undergrowth route.

Time for a quicky So Far Away, 6a .  At only 3 clips (rusty old ones at that – and not even parabolts!), it’s quick alright, but explosive.  Two onsights to finish a good day.

6a+   6a+  5   6a   6a   6a   Photos

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Posted 2011/06/25 by allend66 in La Mussara, Primitiu, Rockclimbing, Roure

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