2011-06-26 Margalef, L’Obac Del Roger ( Chorreras ) & Totxo Del Porc   Leave a comment

Veronica & I leave Maspujols at 8:30am and with a bit of faffing get to Margalef for the 10 O’Clock meeting time with Miquel, Jacob and Lola, and the two girls.  Lola has a similar level to Vero, so we choose the sector Chorreras.  I open Glutamato, 5 for Veronica.  She topropes it no problem, and we move on to Na Fen, 5+.  Jacob opens Piernodoyuna, 6a+ which has a block overhang start, but is great.  3rd onsight.  I open the 6a No Os Durmáis for Veronica to try and she rests once but nails it – her first 6a.  Well done!

I onsight the bloc start Piernodoyuna, 6a+ which is a great route, then the beauty next to it, Lolo Cat, 6b.  It’s juggy, overhangy with one crux move, the rest is a pumpy doddle.  Veronica tries it and stops at the crux, though this is not far from her grasp.  Miquel opened Peus De Plom, 6c (onsight) which Jacob falls from at the anchors – there’s as thin sloper pocket to hold on to while you clip, feet are crap, and he lifts Miquel nearly 2 meters in the air.

Miquel's Highly Unorthadox Belaying Technique

When I try it after lunch, I get to the mid point, resting on alternate arms before the final sequence. After de-pumping my forearms I go for the final push up.  Right hand 4-finger horizontal crack left of the clip, left hand crap 2 finger, feet up, right hand shallow pocket.  This pocket is so crappy, I know I won’t be able to hold it and backclimb down to the rest jug telling Miquel “No me pilles!”.  Another rest and I go for it knowing now what to expect.  Past the crappy pocket now, left hand shallow pocket up high and right hand sloper shallow pocket next to the clips – made it!  … At least that was what I thought while I fumbled the rope missing the clip twice and finally slipping off the sloper, plummeting 6 or 7 meters downward.  Balls!  Missed onsight… <sigh>.  Second try’s the charm.  Very nice.  And I’m told a spectacular fall.

Meanwhile, Vero tries to lead the route she successfully toproped (we had left it open).  I could see she wasn’t as fluid as before and half way up her foot slips and plaff!  Slight rope burn to the bicep, shaken she bails for me to clean.

Miquel in this time is having his own pair of impressive falls on Mameluko, 6c which I don’t try.  It’s too damn hot now so we recamp to the village for a brewski.  Eoin’s on his way, but with crappy mobile coverage communication is difficult at best.  I try to give him directions before the line dies…

Cooler temperatures now as we head up to Totxo Del Porc in the Barranc De Sant Salvador (If you remember, this was where Sharma blew me off).  I open what I think is a 6b, which turns out to be a 6a+ (correct) and then onsight the 6b next to it.  The topo I have is different to Miquel’s so I guess it was 6b, with a hard 5+ / easy 6a to cool down on, on the left hand side of the wall.  3 good routes to finish an excellent day.

 

5   5+   6a   6a+   6b   6c   5+   6a+   6b   6a   Photos

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