2011-07-05 Siurana, Can Sumera   1 comment

Ivan suggested Can Sumera and by the time we arrived at 4:15pm, the sun was just making itself scarce – perfect.  Ivan opened the thin #33, 5+ … nice onsight, as there’s still plenty of breakages coming down.  I flash it but don’t remember it being this thin.  Maybe not many people have climbed here, it’s still dirty and breaky.  Next the beautiful #32, 6a next to it.  Such a great little route this, and the big chalky jug high left at the first clip “no tiene nada que ver, hombre!”, fooled Ivan.  Right hand undercut to take the small hole (L) next to the draw, clip, forget the big jug left, feet right and up, right hand up to a gaston and horizontal hold above, bring the left to the same hold, a little more right and up for the feet, long reach up and right to a thank-God hold… crux done.  Reachy pockets after giving a pleasurable climb.

Since the last post with Rockteam, there’s another new route (where the rope was – between #30 & #31) which we have a look at.  It looks as though it might share the anchor with #30, 6b which both I & Ivan flash.  On the way down he strips #30 (very nice route) and quickdraws the new route which looks difficult.  I tie in.  And it’s thin alright!  (@Rockteam – spoiler alert: ¡No leas el siguiente párrafo hasta que has probado la via nueva!)

First try, I power up past the left hand horizontal crack and clip the 2nd at belly heigh.., er… ab height.  Holding with a crappy left at the end of a diagonal fissure, then feet up and a really nice delicate reachy / balancey move to make the smallest of crimps with the right, open legs, left hand nipple hold high left then up to two ultra thin crimps, and here I tell him to block.  I didn’t see the foot hold on the first reachy balancey right hand crimp because of the overhang.  2nd try nails it and after this sequence it’s a 5+ up to the anchor.  Very nice climbing.  Ivan tries but can’t make the 2nd clip, and abandons it, which means I have a chance to redpoint to clean it.  2nd ascent, I clip the second bolt from the low first horizontal left hand fissure – nice, struggle up to the crap diagonal (L), and that ace move again – what a great mix of left hand blocking, balance to keep weight as much over the feet as possible as the wall overhangs, and long reach with the right, taking a thiiiiin crimp, holding it to move feet up and open.  Brilliant.  I’m really happy with a redpoint.  I’d guess this as a 6b+, but we’ll check the cafe-bar in Cornu for updated topos when we fold.

Looking for some slightly easier, more stable rock now, we go right and  Ivan opens the nice but high-in-the-grade 6a+ Mooving (nice to return to routes with names!).  The crux is the starting move up the thin vertical feature.  I flash and clean as Ivan has finished for the day.

Two dudes that Ivan knows arrived earlier and they’ve left a ‘bonissima’ 6b open for us to try, so I get myself excited and we head further right to the start of the red rock to an awesome 27-meter onsight D’Equitllevis, 6b.  I’d grade it as 6b+ while the dead squirrel is squatting in the good hand hold half way up.  Seems a shame to disturb him, so I leave him for the next climber to find Winking smile.

 D'Equitllevis, 6b

An excellent session.

5+   6a   6b   6b+? –-> 6b+?   6a+   6b


Posted 2011/07/05 by allend66 in Can Sumera, Rockclimbing, Siurana

One response to “2011-07-05 Siurana, Can Sumera

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  1. Buen sector para las tardes de verano. Muchísimas vías por encadenar! 😉

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