2011-07-09 Siurana, Can Marges Abaix & Can Melafots   Leave a comment

Camper van packed with sleeping bags, we set out for Siurana – Can Marges Lower, as we have to find some easy climbs.  I open Currupipi, 5 for Lola who has a gammy ankle still, so is not 100%.  It’s a little polished – Can Marges has seen thousands of rockshoes since the first great lines went up back in the day.  After this I open Can Fanga, 5+ and Miquel seemed to turn it into a 6c by going a little to the left.  Here Lola, Miquel and the tyke go back to the camper van. leaving Jacob and myself to work a little.  Early afternoon shade is a relief and we set to work:  Pixapins, 6a+ is a tough little 6a+, but we sent it cleanly with no problems.  Miquel’s recommendation of Esquivapins, 6c foiled us – I tried 4 times and still couldn’t redpoint, 5 times for J who also couldn’t.  It’s nice, but I didn’t want to waste too much energy and time on it – we have all weekend and there are other climbs waiting!  This is a project for another day, to really concentrate on it.  We wrap up the sector with a climb I’d spotted before but have never tried Extremoduro, 6b+ just left of the 6a+, and was happy with a fast and clean onsight – flash For J. It has a heavy overhang start, but speed helps in these situations.

We pack up and go looking for the camper van.  Upon seeing the empty space where the old VW was, we kill a little time by climbing in Can Melafots.  I’d recommended Gat Reggae, 6c to Jacob and we went over to try it.  A slight error by me, he starts up the neighbouring 6a route Meconi and on the way down puts a draw on the Gat’s first clip – Gat Reggae having 2 cruxes: the first a block start with a high first clip, and 2nd a sequence of moves half way that, though not hard, if you get the sequence wrong you’re likely to fall.  Before I tie-in to flash Meconi, some friends of J’s offer us a try on Pizza De Pinya, 7a .  With draws in place I opt for bash – it being a mythical route.  With occasional advice from below I clamber up to the first crux but cant stick it.  Gotta keep training for this one.  Pere cleans it easily and gives me a few tips for the next time.  Now I clean the 6a (another fine route) and we pack up and have a beer at the camping.  Lola & Miquel join us soon after.  Tomorrow, more work!

5   5+   6a+   6c  6b+   (7a)   6a   Photos

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