2011-07-12 Arbolí, El Duc   Leave a comment

Today I climb with Vero & Lluis, El Duc looking good even though it has sun on it.  Vero starts up an easy 5 to recover an abandoned screwgate, just as the owners arrive to tell us that it’s theirs and there’s a wasps’ nest half way up the line.  She abandons it for the 5+ to its right Pensaments Porcs.  Struggling at the crux, the rock is quite polished and even my 5-10 hybrids feel unsure when I strip it.  Entre Pitus i Flautes, 6a is next and is high in the grade.  More like a 6a+, the difficulty exagherated by the smooth foot placings.

Lluis opens Bribriblibli, 7b round the corner, resting 4 times as he encounters each move sequence.  He asks me if I want to try … (Dude, does a bear shit in the woods!?) so I pull the rope down.  Thin start, it’s overhangy but with crap feet – the good thing being this is a new route and though the rock still breaks in places, the adhesion is maximum.  Some nice move sequences up to the middle traverse, and a dyno up to a bomber hold.  Left shoulder gaston to long reachy moves with a sloper below the anchor.  Buf!  I rest 4 times throughout the line, getting Lluis to lower me so I can try each sequence.  Powerful climbing.  Once I top out I leave the draws in place for Lluis to redpoint.  Nice climb.

5+   6a   7b   Photos

Posted 2011/07/14 by allend66 in Arboli, El Duc, Rockclimbing

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