2011-07-13 Arbolí, El Duc   Leave a comment

Telling Miquel about the 7b yesterday, he suggests we return to El Duc, though we did have another 7b, Protocol on the agenda (La Carbonera).

We start with a 6… on the Beaufort scale!  Jeez, talk about wind!..  We warm up on 6b+ El Handicapitat (I tried this with Xavi Granell after he took me under his wing, and before he turned into a tool, a few years ago… though the only thing I remember is the top is a bit slopey.)  This should have been an easyish redpoint – a gust of wind would have taken me clean of the wall save for pinching a parabolt to right myself.  But taking the 5th drawless bolt clip between my thumb and index finger, though only to regain balance that wouldn’t have been lost if there were no wind means for me it was not a clean ascent.  Miquel takes about 15 minutes to get past this wind-tunnel crux, and with his billowing white blossomy pleated shirt, and chalk dust flying off horizontally, I thought I was in a late 1990’s Michael Jackson pop video.

With the wind in mind we shelve the 6c+ next to it – I had a look on the way down and it was even more exposed to the wind, with thinner holds.  We have a look at the 7b and although it’s round a corner, there’s still plenty of wind.  Lola nails a 5 the other side of the wasps’ nest.  We chill with 6a+ Mariline that is a difficult 6a+: the crux move is hidden from view, but we redpoint it and Lola fights her way up it too – kudos.  By now the wind has decreased though is still bothersome, and we set about Bribriblibli, 7b.  Miquel has first crack.  4 rests later he tops out.  Nice job.  I get ready to try and redpoint and make the 4th clip before I have to rest.  Brutal.  Another rest after the dyno before the reachy traverse.  I top out after 2 rests (4 yesterday) – I’ll have to train a little more to redpoint this, but it’s doable.  We finish to a lovely red sunset over Montsant.  I’m not sure you can see the eagle in this shot though…

6b+   6a+   7b

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Posted 2011/07/14 by allend66 in Arboli, El Duc, Rockclimbing

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