2011-07-16 Siurana, Can Facil, Reserva India, Can Melafots   Leave a comment

Well, after taking some time off, last weekend in Siurana (the yolk of the egg) was as follows: Can Facil, Esteve Martinez, 6a then a second onsight Petrivia, 6b.  The sun’s already on the rock so we choose Mr Smoid, 6b+ as the last climb before moving.  The roof problem has a really shitty triangular left hand hold to reach a half good pocket with the right.  Another couple of hands before the thank-God hold to clip, but I slip off before the goodun.  The fall was clean but frustrating.  Should’ve nailed it.

Reserva India, north facing and shadowy throughout the day should have been a good experience.  The perpetual waterfall halfway on the crag (probably from the camping) makes the approach a little treacherous (slip on the wet rock and you’ll drop 10 feet into a world of shrub and hurt).  The warm up climb Apache, 5+ is the easiest on the wall and for me it wasn’t a good line.  The rock’s very smooth, thin of features and similar to Ca L’Auep – the polished Richard in Arbolí.  Thanks, but no thanks.

Up to Can Melafots – now in shade at 4pm, to Disídia Col·lectiva, 6b+, fantastic route except the block start.  The super high 1st clip and the block start on Gat Reggae, 6c means a conservative approach and placing the first draw while stripping Meconi, 6a next to it.  As I have this, I try Viernes 13, 6a+ the other side.  Nice onsight and redpoint repeat of Meconi, though Gat Reggae is shelved for another day.

6a   6b   6b+  5+   6b+   6a+   6a

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