2011-07-17 Siurana, L’Olla & Can Marges Lower   Leave a comment

Very few easy routes in L’Olla, we’re at the right hand side.  Onsight warm up on 6b El Caganer with 6b+ Mayling to follow, though I bail on the pitiful nipple hold to get over the roof below the anchor – remember, Derek… you climb because you like it.  We start to work a thin and reachy 7a Güate Aquí Hay Tomate and as I read in the Rockfax guide later, the middle crux isn’t the crux.  I bail on it but redo it when the draws are in place.  Middle bit over, thin moves up to the real crux – a bulge roof to get over.  A nice large hole helps for two hands (the clipping hold), feet up but then what?  I can’t get up there without the draw.  Ah, 7a is a different level (and with luck and work), I’ll be saying this about 7c once I’m onsighting most 7a and have a lot of 7b worked and redpointed.

Shade in Can Marges Abaix so we romp up Rollito Lof, 5, Ay Candemor, 5, Jota Negra, 5+, and the old-school equipped Trimegesto, 6a (20 meters, 4 crap studs, super high first clip)

And that’s all she wrote.

6b   6b+   (7a)   (7a)  5   5   5+   6a


Posted 2011/07/17 by allend66 in Can Marges Abaix, L'Olla, Rockclimbing, Siurana

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