2011-07-24 Siurana, L’Herbolari   Leave a comment

The number of pending routes dwindling at L’Herbolari (only 2 left to try) as today I topout 2 new routes – an onsight warm up on Calçotada Rebollenca, 5+ that is a bit strange, it’s super run out and frankly wierd (there’s an Ojo! in the guide book: 30 meters, only 6 bolts).  Marc flashes it and asks me about the nice Vía Del Paquín, 6b+ to its left.  As I have this onsighted from last visit, and being the gentleman I am, hand over the reins for him to onsight which he does.  I redpoint to clean it, this time going direct to the anchor on full left tiptoe to reach a right handhold at full stretch (last time I went left to get over the roof as Marc did today).  What a nice route.

Now Marc lets me open (how kind!) one of the 7s I have my eye on: Fisuterapia, 7a right next to the previously tried Cojón Prieto, 7a.  30 meters, 11 bolts and 3 cruxes.  1st crux: 2nd-4th bolt.  A sequence to get from a ledge at the start of an arrete onto the face then back again, heelhooking to shift body weight back over to the left, using super crap left hand holds with a half decent right hand sidepull.  A nice traverse using two deep twin pockets to the 2nd crux: the start of the long verticle crack (6th bolt) that runs nearly up to the anchors.  Overhanging (naturally) with crap feet and crap hands, thin horizontal crimps (I fell using the verticle crack) to get past the bulge.  A nice overhanging clamber up the juggy fissure to the last crux, a bare slab with one-knuckle two-finger pockets at best, and the thorn bush that’s taken up residence between the two 7s doesn’t help either.  After that job done, a 6b romp up 3 bolts to the anchor.  Nice!

The 2 untouched routes left are Azukiki, 6a+ and This School Pen, 7a+. There is a 5+, Leire but it’s a chimney and I don’t fancy it.

5+   6b+   7a


Posted 2011/07/25 by allend66 in L'Herbolari, Rockclimbing, Siurana

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