2011-07-30 Arbolí, L’Obaga & L’Ermita   Leave a comment

It had to happen.  After 10 years of living in Spain, we finally got rained off a crag.  And when I say rained off, I mean light drizzle and we were feeling tired anyway…  (If you’re reading this, “E3”, “Bomber”, and “Matnav”… I was thinking of you guys!)

I’m trying to get round to nailing some recommended 7s, Viagraman & Remena Nena to name but two, though starting late and Marc’s presence in Arbolí prompted us to postpone Siurana in favour of L’Obaga.  I’ve never climbed there and there’s shade till 5pm.  We warm up on the easiest climb there, a swift onsight 6b Porros i Porrons.  Leaving the 6b+ and 6cs, I get straight on Arseniac, 7a.  Thin stuff on mini crimps and long reaches.  There’s a thin section half way with shallow slopers, though with careful repositioning of bodyweight they turn out to be not so bad.  There’s another crux at the top below the penultimate bolt.  An Egyptian would have done it but it turns out the one knuckle two-finger sloper on the bare slab is good enough to reach the jug high left.  Great route!  The sun has arrived and it’s time to go to the Hermitage.

Eoin steps on hallowed ground easily enough, and after Wolgrot, 6a I try Hashishins, 7a.  After taking a right hand sharpish edged pocket on the overhang, the feeling in my little finger is numbed for a couple of hours.  Not very straight forward the sequence of holds on this route.  I believe Marc when he says it’s not the best 7a in the sector.  Eoin climbs Bocamoll, 6a to clean the overhang and we move further down the wall to Seiduna, 6b+.  I come off at the weird crux bulge half way and my eagerness to try Zarpas, 7a is fading.  Right on cue, spots of rain from the descending mist cloud start falling and with the wind feels chilly.  We decide to pack up, though on the way home it’s not even heavy enough to have intermittent wiper on the longest setting.

A monofinger only big enough for your little finger! I’m enjoying this monofinger that’s only big enough for your little finger!

6b   7a   7a   6b+   Photos


Posted 2011/07/31 by allend66 in Arboli, L'Ermita, L'Obaga, Rockclimbing

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