2011-08-02 La Mussara, Isabel   Leave a comment

Alvaro and myself descend the vial ferrata to Isabel where I have a lot of work to do.  We walk past the rock fall just right of L’Amadeu, 6b+ where there are some new routes not in my old refuge guide (2002).  They look difficult.  Named: Tana, Faustino, Black Hole, El Duo Dinamico, they each have a painted black stone sikaed onto the base indicating the name.  Today however we start just past these new routes and warm up on Shpagat, 6a+.  Tough start with a tough stretch move half way to get past a blank undulating slab.  Nice climb, all 30 meters of it.  We go looking for a climb we must have missed and find it, the start overgrown with ivy covering the name and prickly shrubs growing all around it.  Alea Jacta Est, 6a+, 6a+ looks like it hasn’t been climbed for ages, but I get stuck in, loving it until I come to the English trad style chimney up the vertical face.  The lower section’s a ramp (1st pitch) and is simple, but at the start of the chimney it goes straight up and the climbing is thrutchy – not my cup of chah.  Anyone missing The Roaches, or wanting to lose layers of skin off their backs and arms should come and give this a look.

Alea Jacta Est, 6a+, 6a+

Now we look for a decent Spanish style climb and I onsight it: Abierto Hasta El Amanecer, 6b+ is a beauty, with a roof, vertical crack and blank slab.  Superb climbing, though a little dirty.  We finish the day with a nice gentle cool down climb – and what a gem – Lauren Films Presenta, 6a.  It gives you just what you need, when you need it, however it is a little unusual, some of the holds being what you need but in different angles than the usual 6a fare.  Sweet, and worth repeating, even if there is a big bush growing on the topout ledge below the anchors.  30 meters of class!

6a+   6a+   6a+  6b+   6a

 

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Posted 2011/08/02 by allend66 in Isabel, La Mussara, Rockclimbing

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