2011-08-06 La Mussara, Isabel   Leave a comment

Continuing with the remaining routes at this little-climbed sector.  Marc joins me and we start with Stupid Questions, 6a.  I clean and start to mount the 6b+ on the left, but can only do the few bolts by the roof.  Marc wants to warm up a bit more so he gets on Flor Del Desig, 6a+.  Now he flashes El Club Dels Dimitits, 6b+ but because I have it redpointed I want to try something new – L’Amadeu, 6b+.  This is so definitely not a 6b+, probably not a 6c as there is a brutal roof to get over and 2 bare slabs up top.  I manage to get over the first slab by backclimbing and attacking it from another side, originally put off by the sound the flake below was making when I slapped it – it had “going to break any minute now” written all over it, but it held my left foot.

Marc’s next climb is Abierto Hasta El Amanecer, 6b+ and the roof foils him.  I wasn’t going to do this, still feeling tired from shift changes at work, but he wanted to see how I did it, so I redpoint it.  When I onsighted this, I did: RH 2finger pocket, LH up over roof, RF sloper ledge at he left start of the roof, LF half way up the crack under the roof, RH sidecrimp, LF up over the roof, then up and clipped from above.  Today I fannied about some: RH 2finger pocket, LH up over roof, RH join LH, RF sloper ledge at he left start of the roof, LF half way up the crack under the roof, pull up half jumping for the big RH right of the bolt, then feet up and clip.  Not very elegant – I’ve got to work on that – but the result was satisfactory.  To finish, Marc runs up (“Uff!”) the 6a Lauren next door.  Home, tired, and sweating like pigs.

6a   6a+   6c   6b+

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Posted 2011/08/07 by allend66 in Isabel, La Mussara, Rockclimbing

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