2011-08-19, 20, & 21 Cavallers   Leave a comment

Day 1 – Friday 19th.  Formigaz.

Taking advantage of the holiday, I zoom up to Cavallers – granite heaven – for a climbathon with Maurici & Merixell.  Up at 6, out by 7 arrive at 10.  We were discussing doing some big wall stuff… always a nice change from the single pitch short stuff but I’m not a huge fan – once in a while is OK, but all the things that come with big wall: carry water up with you, uncomfortable belaying, sore feet, rope getting snagged after rapping down, rethreading the rope… Anyway, to tick the multipitch box and warm up for the harder stuff, we decide to get into Formigaz, 5+, 5+, 5, 5+.  We start it just as the sun was arriving <smacks own forehead>, but quality stuff.  We were surprised, only a 5+ but it’s thin thin thin, here you’re relying on balance and adhesion, being as there’s bugger all for hand holds, but a 45 degree angle helps some.  What with having to repeat the second pitch on the way down to free the rope caught up in a tree, we clock in at a weighty 4 hours, 35 minutes to do 135 meters split into 4 pitches.  Pityfull!

We break for lunch and treck up over the dam to Plaka Tuka, the black/green brocken buttress that looks different to all the others.  It was a shame we were super tired from the morning (and driving the 250kms) because we only had time to onsight/flash two routes: Encanto De Canto, 6a and the excellent Circulo Vicioso, 6b before we shut up shop, knackered.

To the campervan for a hearty tea.  Topos of the awesome sectors can be found in the Topo pages.

5+   5+    5+   5+   6a   6b


Posted 2011/08/22 by allend66 in Rockclimbing

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