2011-08-19, 20, & 21 Cavallers   Leave a comment

Day 2 – Saturday 20th.  Drinking & Pared Inerte.

We start a lot earlier than yesterday, but it seems we were still late, as arriving at the desired sector of Plaka Xalmet we see a lot of climbers and ropes already on the wall.  We descend slightly to the lower sector Drinking.

Mr El Cap, 5+ was an easy warmup.  Xell was having problems, couldn’t find her groove and she abandoned it.  We all have one of those days were you don’t climb particularly well, fortunately this was only one of those mornings because on the afternoon sesh she was on fire.

Trident Con Azúcar, 5+ was to entice Xell out of her funk, and I wasn’t going to do it (having done it with Rocteam 2 months ago) but after she threw in the towel I flashed it with Mau.

Just Bourici & me now so I have a look at Contigo Pan Y Cebolla, 6b+ that is next to the 5+ that we debated doing in July.  Start was good, I got up the explosive overhang onto some verticle but my left foot slipped off and I just caught myself.  I replaced my foot on the same sloper and down I went.  Really angry for a silly mistake, I later forgave myself as the crux section up top made me hangdog twice.  Super thin and reachy with no hands, no feet, and a bulge to get over.  This was the first incident of grading discrepencies we had over the weekend.  Still, not a bad route… by no means in the same league as the quality routes up at Xalmet, but no slouch either.  Mau bails on it to do Pedro y Sus Trastos, 6b again done in July so I bail.  We all do the route next to it to finish the morning session, Cat Chow, 5+.

Pared Inerte, another quality sector on the left hand side of the dam was where we started after eating.  A superb looking ¡Que Bueno Que Viniste, 6a! was a great romp up jugs and crimps.  A shame it was over to quickly at 25mtrs.  Bourici quickdrawed the 6c next to it: Liiiha.  Thin and fine with a crux at the start and at the top, I, Maurici & Xell send it without problem.  Xell’s back on form.

At the start of the wall there is an impressive looking corner fissure Directa Americana, 6b that has people praising it.  A hefty 35 mtrs long, (14 draws) and actually the first pitch of a 6a above it, this was an absolute monster of a route.  Thankfully they didn’t tell us much about it (only it was buenissimo) and I start up bridging onto the two perpendicular walls.  A crux up the top part of the bridge onto the middle section of the line.  Another crux to get up onto the face, then a gentle overhang up a verticle crack with the odd potato to help you get past the last crux at the penultimate bolt.  You arrive pumped and breathing hard, but the smile on your face when you lower down…….

The previous climbers are there grinning expectantly as I touch down as only those who have a shared pleasant experience grin, waiting for my verdict, and we heartily agree that it was missing at least a ‘+’ from the grade.  Wolf in sheep’s clothing!  Xell now motivated by my mad cheshire cat ramblings flashes it topped.  Nice, and she too is smiling like a loon on reaching the ground!

Maurici’s turn and sadly, so sadly the final crux beats him – worse he injures his shoulder by taking the draw on falling.  It’s difficult to overcome reflex action but practice falling will do it.  We skinnydip in the reservoir to cooldown from the heat, and trek home.

Topos of the awesome sectors can be found in the Topo pages.

5+   5+   6b+   5+   6a   6c   6b   Photos

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Posted 2011/08/23 by allend66 in Rockclimbing

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