2011-08-27 Mont Ral, Terra Negra & L’Arrepenjada   Leave a comment

A full week without climbing after the pure sweetness of Cavallers last weekend.  I wasn’t feeling particularly strong today but Rik was game to tick some routes – usual problem: routes low in the grade with shade.  We opt for easy street at Black Paw, Mont Ral.  There was only a couple of hours of direct sunlight to cope with then shade arrived.  Rik opened El Tio Lila, 4+ and L’Il·luminat, 4+ next to it back to back, being as they’re only 3 bolts each.  I open Trossos Grossos, 5+ for him to romp up and he missed the final clip.  And almost fell.

We move up to the higher ledge to nail Tula, Gandula, Abdula, 5 and the initial bulge beat Rik so I opened it for him to toprope.  Feeling destroyed, Rik tells me he’s toast so I should look for something for me, and I had scoped the east face of the pillar down at L’Arrepenjada, having played on the west face and been impressed by the routes (I have Rana, 7a as a pending project, but today isn’t the right day for it).  From right, there’s a 5, 5+, 6a+, 6a+, 6b, 6b.

Having warmed up I get straight on the end 6b, Kin Kony.  A nice onsight this, even if I didn’t read it well.  The overhang’s a little steep and thin, but crimp what there is and feet up.  There’s no shortage of holds either, unlike other 6bs but what there is is small.  Some of it juggy, some fingery and small.  Nice.  As Rik’s not climbing, I pull the rope through and tie in for the neighbouring 6b, El Bloqueig Del Guaje.  More sustained, and a tad longer, this was constant climbing, with no real places for rest, though you could recouperate a little strength here and there.  The block the name refers to is in the middle of the wall and is overhanging.  Some nice movements to get past the bulge and continue up to fine handholds, all the way to the anchor.  Another really nice onsight.  We break for lunch.

Rik has a try at opening the 5+, Pandilla but his forearms are done for the day.  I open it and strip it, wondering how this beauty had escaped my attentions all these years.  As a cool-down climb I onsight the 6a+ next to it, La Pastera Del Dimoni.  The first two bolts have been removed making the first clip over the diagonal break some 8-9 mts up, though the climbing is easy to get there.  Some nice thinnish holds above but always pleasurable.  A nice end to a nice day.

4+   4+   5+   5   6b   6b   5+   6a+

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