2011-08-28 La Mussara, Diedres Del Mig   Leave a comment

A short day today, as I have a flight to catch to England.  I meet Meli at 11 in Vilaplana and we head up to the old school of Mussara.  Diedres Del Mig – where the world’s most difficult 6a+ is found (the one I fell off the time I tried to onsight it) is half in sun half in cloud cover, perfect.  As it’s ‘only’ a 5+, I suggest Meli open Donantes De Sangre which he fights with but kudos, onsights.  I strip it and we head over to the other 5+, Desig D’Estiu.  Again, Mr. Meli fights and wins.  This is a class route. 

Time to tweak a little, I open the half-phalanx two-finger thin-fest Chaoen Conection, 6a (one of the world’s hardest 6as!) and leave the first draw clipped.  Get to the 2nd and you have this in the bag.  The higher you climb, the easier the route becomes.  Meli hangs on it, but no shame there.

Now, the next easiest route (or that should be the least hardest route) is the mother of a 6a+, Sis De Deu, which I blew the onsight of with Bourici & Xell.  Talk about thin.  Imagine a Ethiopian at a Weight Watchers’ convention.  Not even close.  It’s thinner than that.  It’s thinner than the slice of ham you get on a BHS sarnie.  I manage to salvage a redpoint, but it’s tough.

This fine sector has a few projects for me: The 3-star classics El Canto De Gallo, 6c+ and Jarabe De Palo, 6c+.  Not wanting to tweak too hard today, and this being the last climb, I opt for the 6b, Jarto De Estar Harto.  Equipped with chemicals, this has an impressive look to it from the ground.  I make the 3rd clip, nice and steady but careful climbing and the next move is an awesome right hand undercut 45º up to the clip, then full stretch to clear the blank slab and left hand north-west.  My cheek touched the rock you have to stretch that much – brilliant.  Nice progress up the corner, and just as I dismissively think to myself “Hmmm, it hasn’t got anything else..”  I get bitten on the backside with a super thin pass, followed by another super thin pass to clip the anchors!  Wow, quality route.  I tell Meli that the shouldn’t miss it, it’s a beauty and he tries leading it.  He doesn’t have as much reach as I, and is a tad smaller, so he very nicely gets past the lower section diagonal reach.  The top section beats him but he tops out.  Time is now 4pm and we have to go home!  Next climbing in UK!

5+   5+   6a   6a+   6b

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Posted 2011/08/28 by allend66 in La Mussara, Rockclimbing

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