2011-09-11 Siurana, El Solarium (L’Herbolari)   Leave a comment

We kipped in Siurana and tried to get an early start before the sun got to fierce (El Solarium) but what with House music from our considerate neighbours, the full moon and the wildlife, we got to sleep late and rose very late.  After a not so quick coffee in Cornu, back to the crag and the sun had already arrived.  I had suggested El Solarium because on previous visits I had seen tell tale glints coming from the rock that led me to think that the trad routes had been bolted – no, only anchors and belays (with one odd bolt to protect a blank slab).  So it was no go… we had a 5 to start with at the end of the wall towards La Covassa, and El Lado Oscuro was nice, but new (dirty, breaking rock).  I spied a new route to its right but it looks difficult.  Friends of Eoin & Ric’s came and they did the 6c next to us, but we all had to recamp to L’Herbolari for accesible routes.

I managed to redpoint the 6b+ roof prob Arrebato that Rocteam sent nicely which left me floundering, having gone to far right.  Taking the direct line today got me up without a problem.  Eoin got his ass handed to him on a plate by Vía Del Paquín, 6b+ which must have felt like a hotplate with the sun on it.  Fortunately, it hazed up a bit and with semi cloud cover we were spared the worst of it.

Having seen one of the others climbing the face, and not wedged into the chimney like everybody else, I mopped up the difficult and ugly Leire, 5+ for want of a new route to do.  I feel sorry for the newbs that come here, try this route because it is the lowest rated and have to fight with it.  It was a difficult 5+.  With Azukiki, 6a we finished the day hot, thirsty and tired.  I hadn’t done much today, either.

  6b+   5+   6a

Posted 2011/09/12 by allend66 in L'Herbolari, Rockclimbing, Siurana

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