2011-09-25 La Mussara, Follet   Leave a comment

My present project, ahem, after mightily showing El Canto De Gallo, 6c+ who was boss, is the other 3-star 6c+, Jarabe De Palo.  But first, to warm up a little on Montse Variant, 4+, 5+ then the normal Montse start (1st pitch only), 4+.  Looking at Jarabe, it seemed a lot harder than Canto – it’s 10 or 12 metres longer, it’s overhanging and it looks like it has some reachy and strenuous  moves.

I started it with a bit of a tricky move to make the 1st clip!  “Mr Allen, your wake-up call”!  Then the 2nd clip had a strange undercut move where I was over the clip to clip in.  Then a no-left-foot traverse to blindly make a good hand hold (right, crossed) then join hands and up the crack.  Some looong reaches later and you’re at the orange brown coloured vertical crack, all the while overhanging.  Just past halfway the 5th clip and I’m pumped.  Another bolt, another rest.  This grand route didn’t just kick my ass, it tore me a new one first, then kicked it.  Then handed it to me on a plate.  Uff…   Ecstatic and humbled at topping out, I lick my wounds by remembering the almost effortless flash sending of El Canto De Gallo.  I didn’t even break sweat, but of course the style of climbing is totally different.  Oh well, got to pay some more dues on 6cs.

Ric thrashes his way up Delfos, 5 and then I onsight Popeye, 6a without trouble.  Ric manages it too – kudos!  I hang on Pitufo, 6a+ and we finish the day with Astarax, 5+ – polished but great.

Here’s the viote Jarabe De Palo, 6c+ from the ground and from up top looking down, as used in the Mussara Refuge guide:

Jarabe De Palo, 6c+        Jarabe De Palo, 6c+

4+  5+  4+   6c+  6a   6a+  5+

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Posted 2011/09/25 by allend66 in Follet, La Mussara

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