2011-10-09 Arbolí, La Carbonera   Leave a comment

Time to meet the international consortium of climbers, with representatives from Ireland (Eoin), Italy (Riccardo & Giuliano), Czech Republic (Thomas, …), England (Big D), South Korea (Yirang), and probably a few other corners too.  La Carbonera is good for beginners so we set up negotiations on El Superganes, 4 & El Ganes, 4.  Ric moves onto steeper ground sending El Kinto Kinto, 5+ which I clean. 

I open up Ca L’Escalet, 6a+ next and, feeling like an old hippy who has just rolled a splif with 4 or 5 youngsters sitting round cross legged paying homage, I lunge up to make a right hand gaston to awed gasps of “Whoa!”. 

They’re takin’ the piss”, I muse with a smirk and clip the first bolt.  I redpoint the rest noting the limit of trust I can give the crag booty I found last week: 5-10 Anasazi rockshoes, size 9 – a bit big but great for easy routes and warming up.  Ric fights his way up it, and Thomas too, previously humbled topropes it.

Turning to my trusty Evolvs I redpoint the excellent Bussejant A La Antartida, 6b+ (definitely not a 6c) the hardest route on the right hand side of the crag.  This is a class route – new, so adhesion isn’t a problem, it has thin fingery crimps at the halfway slab, then big power pull up jugs up top.  Quality.

I onsight the other ‘new’ route Montserrat, 5+ and then Eoin niftily sends the 6a+ next to it.  A mare to clean but nice to do.  Time for a beer in the pueblo

4   4   5+   6a+   6b+   5+   Photos


Posted 2011/10/11 by allend66 in Arboli, La Carbonera

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