2011-10-12 Arbolí, El Duc   Leave a comment

Roll call: Eoin, Yirang, Ric, Alex, Miquel, Paula, Berta, Philip, and yours oh so truly.  With 3 ropes between us, I open Mari-Line, 6a+ with Eoin riding shotgun on Ets Un Hillary, 5+.   I’m only 2 weeks into normal timetable – that means I haven’t climbed midweek after finishing at 3pm, and woefully, you notice the difference.  That and these crappy oversized rockshoes for warm ups… 

I know Mari-Line, know her well, and yet I couldn’t redpoint today.  Pitiful really.  After this I jump on Nameless Route #4, 5+ in the corner – not too offensive.  With Ric struggling on Mari-Line, I lead Ets, 5+ with the intention of getting to his height and giving advice / encouragement, but he bailed on the route before I arrived.  I cleaned both routes.

The heat and sun is energy sapping, but I have a look at the 6c+ Malvasía and pull off a nifty irregular move to make one clip, pulling up to the crux.  The red herring fooled me: the chalked up big flake to the left is a bit of a cul-de-sac, with sod all above it, so back climbing to the crux, which is polished, took too much of my energy.  I try to get up in a half hearted way and end up resting, Ric taking me in tight.  I couldn’t work out the sequence of moves for a short time, and after studying it realised I had to left hand the 45º crimp as a layback, shifting body weight and angle right getting right foot up then reaching up to draw with the nice crimp right hand, and then it’s 6b to the anchor.  I should have onsighted this.  As it is, worked twice but redpointable.  I was tired and decided to finish but I had to run up Pensaments Porcs, 5+ to retrieve a draw that someone had forgotten to clean.  Patience, Derek…

6a+  5+   5+   6c+   5+   Photos

Posted 2011/10/13 by allend66 in Arboli, El Duc

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