2011-10-15 Siurana, Siuranella Central   Leave a comment

A new sector for us both, Bourici said he’d scoped the sector out before but never climbed here.  I lead all 7 routes and put 7 onsights in my pocket – Thanks bou!  We warmed up on Festa Major Del 78, 6a incredibly dating from 1978 but quality stands the test of time.  It was not noticeably polished – amazing.

To its right, El Mareao, 6a a little harder with an overhang to negotiate.  Tweaking it a little, but conscious of Bou’s recovering shoulder wound, I knock out the first pitch of La Siuranella, 6b.  The other 2 pitches are doable – Mr Chinner, take note.  The surprise is up top, and more like a 6b+ but not uncomfortable.  I mop up the very technical and superb La Romanof, 6b+Bou tops it and his shoulder seems to be OK, giving him a bit of jip but nothing serious, though he’s now done climbing for today.

I nail Mala Rampampinfla, 6a+ (more quality) and that’s us done for this top section, there’s a couple of routes below at La Berruga.  Chaining 28 meter routes without belaying tires one quicker, and I get on the 6a+ Filiprim, debuting my new Beta Stick bought a couple of hours earlier at Goma II.  (After the horrendously high 1st bolt at Fantasía Rosa, 6c at Diedres Del Mig the other day, I thought it prudent to treat myself.)

The next climb was the excellent Gruyére, 6b.  28mts and with a long overhang, though with more or less good holds (it is a 6b after all), the middle section got a little thin at one point.  “Aguántalo!Bou shouts up as I fumble the crux but recover my right foot, having to join hands on the thin crimp to reach up to a crap right hand hold.  There’s no feet, and I had to cross my arms to make the other crap hand hold to the right with my left, from then on autopilot up to the chain.  Very nice indeed…

La Siuranella, 6b, 5+, 6a

6a   6a   6b   6b+   6a+   6a+   6b   Photos

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Posted 2011/10/15 by allend66 in Siurana, Siuranella Central

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