2011-10-22 Siurana, Can Parásit   Leave a comment

Bourici, Xell & Mr. MeliJavi, Andoni and Carmen came later.  We warmed up on Arrikitaun, 5+ and those shitty Anasazis do the job.  I keep them on for the rather nice lover of the Russian queen, Rasputin, 6a.  We descend to the lower section for some nice onsights, and trading in for my 5-10 Spiders freshly resoled, I pocket Tutti Quanti, 6b+ which has an ‘ojo!’ in the guidebook – justified, and Bourici sends the 6b+ next to it, La Mala Reputación.  Leaving them open, the plan was to swap, after Xell & Meli flash them, but Bou has his darn shoulder giving him gyp.  He won’t do Tutti.

Maurici, Carmen, Javi, Andoni

After a short pause, I send Mala, 6b+ with ease I’m told, and I’m ready to tweak the level a little.  By this time the others had arrived, and I ask Andoni which is a nice 7a to try.  He recommends the one I abandoned with Alvaro the day we climbed with Siscu & Edu.  It was too painful on the fingers!

Javi had opened Mr Muss, 7a – another 1986 classic from Xapi.  He left it mounted for me, with the 3rd bolt clipped (high 1st bolt, block start) and I stick the start on the second try.  I keep going, I’m pumped, there’s no feet, and it’s overhanging.  With excellent encouragement from the posse below watching, giving the occasional bit of advice and cheering, I fall at the last thin move before it calms down to a 6b finish.  Before the fall, I’m fighting my way up small crimps, my forearms are burning but after yelling several “Aaaaaaarrrrrgggghhhh!”s, I shout down to Xell “Block!  Block!  Block!  Block!  Block!” and plummet.  They laugh.

Bien luchado!” they comfort me – if only they knew!  Not counting the 4 I abandoned, I top out my 9th 7a.  Uf!.  We chug cold ones and watch the sun set.

Sunset From Siurana

5+   6a   6b+   6b+   7a   Photos


Posted 2011/10/23 by allend66 in Can Parásit, Siurana

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