2011-11-01 La Riba, Penya Roja   Leave a comment

With Jacob, I warm up on 30 meters of 3 star quality Directissima, 6a+ – a nice redpoint although pumpy for the first climb of the day.  While Jake’s having a rest at the crux (sorry tio!), Eoin and the posse arrive (Ric, Alex, Philip, Rang, Berta).  First pitch only for Directa Reus, 6b+ this time I don’t see a crucial foot hold and rest while Jake gets the flash.  Now to tweak a little… looking for some 3 star qual and we choose the Rockfax recommended “A must do!Panini De Paura, 6c+.

Panini De Paura, 6c+

Weighing in at a hefty 28 meters, overhanging for most of it, and quite run out, I start off full of beans, dodgily making the 3rd clip.  Then the next bolt seems miles away, and I try it twice but it just doesn’t gel for me.  This was graded at 7a in the Coronn guide, and I even wonder if we’ve got the right route!  I abandon it and let Jake have a crack at it.  He gets to where I was, and passes it – nice, I think.  He sticks the two crap hand holds to get his feet up, and makes a crap left hand and quickdraws the next bolt, then, and it all happened so quickly, he starts pulling through rope, I start paying it out, and before he can clip it he comes off the left hand and drops like a sack of horseshoes.  Giving him a slight graze to his forearm, he comes to rest spinning about 1 meter above the ledge after the 1st bolt – about a 7 meter flight.  The force of it yanks me 1 meter off the ground, spectacular.  He gets back up there and clips, rests, makes the next bolt and rests.  Doing it one bolt at a time is not on so he bails for me to try again.

I fight my way up it, going too far left at my last ditch point, but I make the draw where Jake fell, then up to the last pre-placed draw and then draw the next bolt.  Rest.  Then there’s a lo-o-o-ong sequence of moves, admittedly fairly juggy for the most part, to the next bolt.  The overhang is destroying my forearms, and I get to just below reach of the bolt and find that the left hand to quickdraw is absolutely crap and my strength is fading fast, and not enough to hold a sloper.  I fall.  The rock looks like it should be a really good hold, but it ain’t.

2nd try, the sequence of about 10 movements drains me and again I fall.  3rd try I find 2 small holes for the left hand, index finger, and middle & ring finger next to it.  Better than the sloper and I make the clip, ufff!  Then a short rest to be able to top out.  Nails hard route this, more difficult than Jarabe De Palo, 6c+.  After a short lunch, we get Efebo Sonriente, 6b done: Jake onsights, I fall, arms still pumped.  After topping out the spots of rain come, but nothing heavy.

6a+   6b+   6c+   6b


Posted 2011/11/01 by allend66 in La Riba, Penya Roja

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: