2011-11-12 Mont Ral, L’Arrepenjada & Els Gigants   Leave a comment

It’s now time to be looking for sunny crags.  Alvaro and his bous – Cristina, Paco, & Dani are in Mont Ral.  One gnarly descent to L’Arrepenjada and we get on the 6a+ Si Plou Fas Grau while, kudos, Dani warms up on Ella Es Así, 6c.  Poor Alvaro – he’s 5 weeks without climbing and the 6a+ kicks his butt.  Paco sends it and Alv cleans up.  Cristina gets on Ella and nearly flashes it, respect.

I’d been looking at Rana, 7a for a while now, so I give it a go.  The crux is at the top, but getting up there is no walk in the park either.  Super high 1st bolt, nifty undercut, thin slab, wicked vertical crack.  I give myself a double ‘mistu’ on my index and middle finger on both right and left hands just before getting to the crux.  Ouw!  That hurts when it’s cold…  I work the thin crux a couple of times before topping out my 10th 7a.  Still looking for an onsight – hell, still trying to redpoint one!  Cristina tops it then Dani works it a couple of times before cleaning – I’ll try it again but on another day.

Calipso, 6c

After Lunch we head down to Els Gigants for the classic and oft recommended Calipso, 6cDani opens it and I try the neighbouring 6c+ Requiem Per Un Volvo.  It’s a bit odd to start, left right left right, it’s like a slalom.  Once I get into the rhythm of the brute I romp up it taking great pockets up to the overhang.  Here things get complicated – the initial pull out onto the roof is thin (one knuckle) but ok.  I ascend making another couple of clips, and don’t see a ‘thank God’ side pull, instead taking a shallow sloping hole.  Here’s where I’m off.  Disappointed, I should have onsighted this.  After a rest I send the rest of the route running on fumes at the anchors, 2 stars in Rockfax, and I’d agree with that.

Next is the classic Calipso, 6c with which I manage to salvage a flash.  Quality route – one of those that doesn’t seem to diminish with a little polish, and it is only a little too.  I stop at times to watch Alvaro fighting the 6c+, some great entertainment there bou!

A superb day, if a little cold, I’ll be back here soon I hope.

6a+   7a   6c+   6c   Photos

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Posted 2011/11/12 by allend66 in Els Gegants, L'Arrepenjada, Mont Ral

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