2011-11-18 Siurana, Espero Primavera   Leave a comment

The plan: La Riba, Penya Roja to tick some 3-star routes, and this was looking so on when we left Maspujols in sunlight.  Just turning the final corner though on the C-14 and the whole village was swamped in fog.  It looked like something out of a Stephen King novel.  Thinking about the photographic evidence, we decided to bail to plan B: Siurana.  Instead of backtracking, we drove north through MontblancVilanova De Prades (draped in sunlight) and down past Albarca.

Wanting to save the sectors on plan A for plan A, I went with my gut feeling of Esperó Primavera.  Starting on the right, we nail Primera Linea, 6a for a nice easy warm up.  Next onto Records Oblidats, 6b not giving us any problems, then I try Kataplax, 6c+ to its left.  Uff!  Thin and fingery down at the start up to the overhang, and then veering left to find handholds to attack the bulge, I left hand gaston and flake but can’t see much else.  One desperate ‘great pretender’ move later and I’m off.  Pulling myself back up to the bolt, I can’t see much – this might be one of those fingertip strength routes where there’s no holds as such but you can get up it if your fingers are strong enough to pinch the shallow features.  I work it, I’m off at the next clip then manage to string together a sequence to get over the last fall and the crux and up onto the anchors.  Thin stuff indeed, and a redpoint needed.

Next the excellent Pelandruska, 6b which is an absolute gem.  Mat onsights it and grins when he touches down.  After a snack, we nail another 6b beaut, Penitenciagite.  Nice move in the middle of the route.

Penitenciagite, 6b     Tant Se 'n Fot, 6b

Moving round the wall, now onto Remena Nena’s neighbour, Tant Se ‘n Fot, 6b.  Another nice one, it’s been years since I worked this with Granell, but I have to climb it on a toprope to clean it.

We’re losing light now, so Mat jumps on and strips the 6a+ Marieta De L’Ull Viu before we schlep back to the car.  Siurana, I love you.

6a   6b   6c+   6b   6b   Photos

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Posted 2011/11/25 by allend66 in Espero Primavera, Siurana

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