2011-11-20 Siurana, Siuranella Central   Leave a comment

Curses!  Approaching the parking we saw a large group of climbers taking our ascent path, grrrr!  By the time we made the steep approach, the two easiest routes were occupied.  Dutch it turned out, and reasonably friendly.  There were also 2 more bods queueing for the 6a’s so I rope up for 6a+ Mala Rampampinfla, a previous onsight.  Nice and fingery lower down, then juggy over the bulge, it’s a nice 6a+ that gets the blood flowing.  Needed it too, because the wind, as nearly always, was blowing on this exposed corner.  It was cloudy too and a little cold.

Onto steeper territory, the 6c Malfario looks nice (it is!) and inviting (as well!) so I shimmy up the 6b approach it shares before veering left.  Staying climbing up the 6b while clipping the 6c twice, here it splits away definitively onto steep and almost nice semi-jugs.  Footwork needs to be up to scratch, and I ignore a chalked undercut flake to the left – good call, on later inspection it turned out to be a bluff, chalked up by some old wag to sucker punch noobs!  I clip then hang alternately resting each arm after the first sequence of moves, before the next harder sequence.  A vertical crack being the next couple of hand destinations, I power up it.  With hands now crossed over on a horizontal ledge after the crack, and wanting a foothold in the empty space to my lower left, the weight’s too much and I’m off.  I’m a little peeved about not onsighting this – I missed a bomber foot ‘nub’ for my left which frankly was higher than I had looked.  After this, a very shallow vertical sloper to get onto a couple more good crimps, then ramping out to a few pockets and the chain.  This will be redpointed on next visit, but for now, it’s the daddy.  On being lowered down, I see I’m bleeding from a rope burn re burnt.

Mat bails on the 6c, instead opting for one of the 6a’s that we were going to warm up on, Festa Major Del 78 (first pitch).  A few spots of rain fall and he cleans it and we hide under the overhanging wall for a while.  When it looks dry, I start up the superb El Mariao, 6a only to get three quarters up it before the rain returns, heavier now.  I top out and when I touch ground I’m wet, and there’s puddles of rainwater on the rope tarp.  Leaving the rope in place we return for shelter.  Eventually, a Dutch dude uses my rope to clean mine and his route next to it.  Unfortunately, the rain has made me very cold and it’s time to prematurely head back to the car, and ultimately a hot shower at home.

2011-11-20 14 Siuranella Central

6a+   6c   6a   Photos

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Posted 2011/11/25 by allend66 in Siurana, Siuranella Central

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