2011-11-27 La Riba, Penya Roja   Leave a comment

Meli, Eoin & Ric are today’s posse at Directa & Les Placques at the mighty Penya.  We warm up on HLM, 5 & Primordials, 5+ then swap with each other.  No problems here, though the 5+ is more like a 5++!

HLM, 5

While I’m still strong, I get in on Javi’s recommendation of Cal Fer-Ho, 7a but abandon it at the 2nd clip.  Too much work for today.  I take on Directa, 6c to the right.  It’s hard, and the crux had me stumped.  It’s the second undercut seen from the ground.  But the undercut is with your right thumb and there’s no feet on the left – you arrive to the crux with your right foot in the good pocket, but you need the left to leave it, and there’s no room for a swap over.  Plus it’s overhanging and awkward.  I think it’s a right hand pinch to make changes.  Anyway, after this steady going up to the horizontal break, but there’s no decent anchor here, the Rockfax guide is wrong again, so I continue up 3 more bolts to make the 7a anchors.

Directissima, 6a+

After Meli fights with a 6a, I try Didac, 6b+ which I couldn’t even onsight.  Thin and overhanging all the way from the 4th bolt on the neighbouring route where it splits, it’s long too – 32mtrs.  Eoin struggles up Directa Reus, 6b+ which I had planned on doing today, but I’m not firing on all cylinders, so it’s best left.  Meli finishes on Aleix, 6a taking an early anchor to the left, I do the extension to the right which is marvellous, some excellent jugs and pockets, and a nice end to a somewhat disappointing day.

5   5+   (7a)   6c   6b+   6a+


Posted 2011/11/27 by allend66 in La Riba, Penya Roja

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