2011-12-04 Siurana, Siuranella Est & Esperó Primavera   Leave a comment

After a horrifying number of camper vans at L’Herbolari parking, I brace for a full house at Fontescaledes but happily there’s space for us.  In fact, there was only one other pair at Siuranella Est.  We warm up on the odd Mucho Papito, 6b.  A quirky scramble.  Leaving the anchors drawed, we do the 6c Borderline next to it, though our mistake – the line should continue for another 10mts, we just didn’t read the guide properly.  Only having 10 draws meant we couldn’t have safely done it anyway if we’d known.  Oh, Paco…

Next I get to redpoint my previous almost onsighted, Pocapena, 6c.  Superb line this, a real meaty 6c.  The midpoint crux flummoxed Paco, so I opened it for him.  We mop up the two first lines in shade by the chains, 6b+ Ardi Beltza, and 6b+ La Negra Tiene Tumbao both onsights.  Ardi is a 5+ scramble for 3 bolts, then super concentrated for 3, and Negra is sustained for the whole line.  We decide to recamp in sunshine.

El Pati & El Cargol

Over at Esperó Primavera, I flash Volta i Volta, 6c.  Pumpy and super reachy, a tough little mother, it gets easier at the top though.  Next to it, Lamparós Toca El Dos, 6b+ a previous redpoint throws me off at the midpoint crux.  I was getting tired, and I vainly tried the crux pass on a budget move.

The cool-down climb was the nifty Marieta De L’ull Viu, 6a+.  The sunset from the top of the climb – spectacular.  The photos just don’t do it justice.

6b   6c   6c  6b+   6b+   6c   6b+   6a+   Photos

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Posted 2011/12/05 by allend66 in Espero Primavera, Siurana, Siuranella Est

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