2011-12-06 La Mussara, Lo Soterrani (Jardi Del Roure)   Leave a comment

In the sunny parking on top of La Mussara, the wind was so cold and cutting that the real temperature of 9º felt closer to zero.  Once descended to The Underground however, the still air and sunshine meant T-shirts were just perfect for climbing.  Luis, the proud father, has opened a new line and wants to get our opinions on it.  We warm up on La Cuerda Floja, 6b (taking Kompresa Con Kanto, 4+ as the first pitch), a really nice climb.  Nice and long and just right for a warm up.  While the others are trying the new route, Paco & I get in on Xauri-Xell, 6b+ (with La Peluda, 6a as approach pitch).  In the Rockfax guide it says “Might be harder.”  Superb research from the ‘Fax team, general opinion is that this is a 6c+, even though the refuge guide also states it at 6b+.  It isn’t.  I also manage to bang my kneecap against a parabolt.  Uncool.

After this, We try out Non Pou Essare, ? which is in between the two great lines of Cuerda Floja, 6b, and El Pez Mas Viejo Del Rio, 7bPaco takes a couple of rests but tops it out ok.  I try it, and for the overhang slab, I take a fall.  Changing tack, I clip the next bolt from the next big hole up – better, then swing across for a left hand fissure almost laybacking it to get sufficient balance and hold.  Powerful moves up to the anchors and my verdict is 7a.  It might have been a difficult 6c+, but the other dudes agreed that 7a was more to the mark.

After this, We try Sensibilitat D’Expressió, 7b+ though I have to own up to toproping it.  My previous hardest route, a led 7b was a lot tamer than this brute, and again I see the very noticeable gap in difference between grades.  The 7b in Arboli’s El DucBribriblibli was powerful, no doubt, but accessible.  I couldn’t see myself leading this at the present time, it’s simply too difficult for me.  Who knows, in a couple of months’ time…

The short day comes to an all too early end and we head up the gruelling ascent in the last of the daylight, to beer up at the refuge, and to update the guide with a beautiful new 7a.  This could be my first 7a redpoint, if I don’t have any luck with Zarpas… and I’d like to save Remena Nena (downgraded from 7a+) till I’m stronger.  Watch this space…

2011-12-06 12 Lo Soterrani   Non Pou Essare, 7a

4+   6b   6a   6c+   7a   7b+   Photos

Posted 2011/12/07 by allend66 in La Mussara, Lo Soterrani

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