2011-12-08 Siurana, Can Famal   Leave a comment

Andoni & Carmen take me to Can Famal, a new sector for me, and I follow Andoni’s lead by warming up a superb 6c flash, Ós Lleganyós.  My first 6c warm up, and I’m not pumped.  That hand trainer I bought from Decathlon seems to be working… 

Carmen nails the 6a+ next to it, Vergatova, though I don’t get round to it today.  Andoni then opens L’Esparramada, 7b which has the same start as Ós, then veers left at the 2nd bolt up to an awesome roof problem.  I rope up and get on it. 

L'Esparramada, 7b   L'Esparramada, 7b

Although he assures me it’s an easy 7b, I take my first fall at the midpoint vertical crack.  Not really difficult, but technical and you have to have your body in the right position or plaff, you’re off.  The second fall, at the same place was so funny, I had my 4 points of contact on the rock, and fighting with the crack, I start to pull up rope to clip the next bolt, so now I’m sticking to the rock with my right hand, and both feet.  Suddenly my left foot slips, and I’m floundering on the rock like a fish out of water.  Trying not to fall, no, fighting not to fall, I somehow manage to stay on at the same time hurriedly calling down “block! block! block!”, but by the time I feel the rope pulling at my harness, I’d regained my balance and was again trying to position myself to clip the next bolt.  I fell a 3rd time here, finally getting past it by sort of laybacking it, and crossing my feet to keep my body right of the crack.  Steady thin climbing up the the start of the roof.

Miraculously I clip the bolt below the roof without falling – I do this without seeing the obvious RH undercut – I clip with my LH on a crap sloper.  Then some nice long reaches up to some semi-jugs, but without any feet.  I fall here once before getting to the knee insert under the roof.  I’m getting super pumped so after a rest I try it again, this time making the roof but I pinch the nerve in my index finger.  Without any feet I’m off again, though a nice clean fall.  Getting up there again, I make the double undercut and put my left knee under the roof to free a hand to clip, Andoni used his right, I my left.  Taking the draw to clip, because I’m now destroyed, I rest for the final push up.  Some nice holds, crimps, and pockets, thoughtfully marked for me and I top out my 2nd 7b lead.  This is doable with work, as opposed to the 7b+ I toproped in Soterrani a couple of days back.  Got to get stronger.

Afterwards, I mop up a 6c+, Ponle Bridas Al Viento but couldn’t onsight it.  Should have, but what with the thrashing my arms took from the 7b and my old crap rope not coming through the Gri-gri I hang once at the crux, then finish it up.  The rope was like Velcro – time to retire it.  After belaying Carmen’s nifty 6c redpoint I get up the alpine style 6b+, Stramonium Flash which on any other day would have been eaten for breakfast, but today I hang just below the anchor taking the harder left instead of easy right fissure. <sigh.>  We enjoy sunset before having a brewski in Cornu.

2011-12-08 29 Can Famal

6c   7b   6c+   6b+   Photos

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Posted 2011/12/09 by allend66 in Can Famal, Siurana

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