2011-12-24 La Mussara, Roure   Leave a comment

Getting over the sniffles I had, it’s been two weeks since I climbed last so no high hopes for today.  Carmen joined us (Bourici & Xell) as I was just getting started on Doll De Lluna, 6a.  La Mussara quality, and 35 meters of it.


We leave it equipped for the girls, and Bou talks me into doing the ‘classic’ Aigua Viva, 6a+.  I had a look at this way back in the day, saw the super polish and thought I’d never bother with it.  Recently, maybe 6 months ago, I sniffed round it again with Meli, but too much polish and a hard start so we walked on.  I’m glad Bou talked me into doing it today though – it is a classic.  But let’s talk about the grading: 6a+ in the refuge guide, 6b in Rockfax, but I’d easily give it 6b+… some of the hand and foot holds are like polished marble!  It’s also a lot harder than the previous “World’s Hardest 6a+” in Diedres Del Mig that has one crux, Aigua you have to fight all the way up.  An onsight that was definitely no gift.

Shargamanta, 7a   Shargamanta, 7a   Shargamanta, 7a

Carmen recommends a 7a next to it, Shargamanta.  Although, again we’re misled slightly by the frankly crap guidebookage for the area.  It’s a 7a in the Alfonso / Buxo guide of 2000, 6c+ in the refuge guide and my Rockfax claims it as a 6c.  The diagrams also indicate the use of Aigua’s anchors to the right though the description says go left up the black vertical crack and mantleshelf at the anchor.  A really hard 6c+ or easy 7a, take your pick, but the crux had me off three times.  A very nice route though, one I’ll repeat next time trying the left hand crack and higher anchor after the rockover.

6a   6a+   7a   Photos


Posted 2011/12/25 by allend66 in La Mussara, Roure

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