2011-12-26 Siurana, La Olla   Leave a comment

?, 8a+   Tic i Toc, 8a+

With the short winter days, the sun really is only a flash in the pan in this sector, and unfortunately because Carmen & I don’t have the level of the others (Andoni, Pep, Angelet, David, Oriol, Juan Manel) we have to warm up on a 6b & 6c to the right hand side of the sector – where the sun hasn’t arrived yet. 

With envy, I watch Andoni, topless,  start to open a nice 7a+ further left in the sun for us once we’re warmed up, meanwhile we tick El Caganer, 6b which is so cold my fingers hurt from chilblains when I come down.  I onsight the 6c, Cap Rapat immediately to the left of it, Carmen hangs but we leave it open to retry.

Now time to play on the 7a+, Valga’m Deu Quin Patir! thankfully with 2 bolts clipped as the crux is between the 1st & 2nd.  A nice deep two finger undercut, then another two finger deep pocket to make the 1st clip, then a left hand side pull, but with the difficulty of getting your fingers out of the inverted pocket and not having my footwork up to scratch, I’m off.  Juan Manel later advises me of something I wouldn’t have thought of – left foot over the right to put some side pull into the mix to try and offset the slight overhang.  There’s another difficult move a little further up, then some nice jugs and crimps, but of course you’re pumped when you get there.  A very nice route.

Carmen now nicely redpoints the 6c, and I choose a monofinger 6c+, Nunca Me Llama Mi Novia, downgraded from 7a.  Painful.  The monofinger sharp pockets trash my fingers and this destroys my 2nd attempt at Valga’m.  I top it out again, and I belay Carmen to strip it.  There’s still things to be done in this sector, a 6c, a 7a, a 7a+, so I’ll be back again.

6b   6c   7a+   6c+   7a+   Photos


Posted 2011/12/27 by allend66 in L'Olla, Siurana

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