2012-01-06 Arbolí, Racó D’Emmanuelle   Leave a comment

A nice early 9am start in Alforja and we decide to climb Racó in Arbolí.  I have a few projects pending here, and as always the cold biting wind up top at the parking diminishes to nothing once we descend to the field of play.

2012-01-06 1 Raco D'Emmanuelle

Warm up on the superb Taraf!, 6b, Alvaro sends it and Felipe, trying to bluff us into believing he hasn’t got form, topropes it.  I’m distracted by the nice 6c next to it, but priorities – there’s Matsutake, 7a to redpoint.  I’d forgotten a little about this, the crux slab, and I hang after missing a tiny left foothold.  After this, I send the rest of the route, interestingly as I don’t know differently, I go direct up the dark grey and shortest part.  The holds here are half slopers, half good holds, but the gentle overhang means it’s no walk in the park.

Matsutake, 7a   Matsutake, 7a

On my second attempt, I blaze through the crux and make my way up this time going right at the last 2 bolts to the less obvious overhanging section, but with really nice deep jugs to pull up on, it’s easier than the short line to the left.  Got my first 7a redpoint, what a nice feeling.  Kudos to Alvaro for suggesting the right hand route – it was a brilliant end to the line.  I lower off wearing a huge grin.

Felipe missing the 2nd try on Mat opens the hard as nails 6c+ El Calorro.  For my money more difficult than the 7a.  Overhanging block start, thin next section, sloper terrace under a overhang blocky bulge that is very short on footholds.  Kudos for opening it.

Warm down climbs with the ugly Desertors De La City, 6a+ that needs a tree start, and the excellent watch-out-for-the-finishing-slab Opri-Refu, 6a.

6b   7a   7a   6c+   6a+   6a   Photos

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Posted 2012/01/07 by allend66 in Arboli, Raco d'Emmanuelle

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