2012-01-14   Leave a comment

First things first, regards and kudos to two selfless people:

To Mr Jordi Besora & Mr Pep Poblet, for an incredible amount of time and work given so the rest of us dirtbags can climb somewhere new.

Cloud and cold make the first climb, Glorias Viejas, 6b+ painful.  Ten meters in and with 20 to go before I can put another notch on my onsight tally, I loose feeling in one of my fingers: the rock is freeeezing cold.  A nice climb.  Edu suggests we do Rampa Final, 6c a little further down and in sunlight.  Very reachy and no room for rests on the gentle overhang all the way up to the ramp at the end.  I hang on this, slightly dirty, slightly unstable route (Edu knocks down a few bricks).

Glorias Viejas, 6b+   El Dia Darrer, 6b   Alpine Star, 6b+   Maurici, Derek, Edu

Looking for more onsights we drop it down to 6b with El Dia Darrer a 30 meter crack than is not very recommendable.  It starts off in a vertical fissure, then takes in a roof and alpine style chimneying on the top section.  Also poorly protected.  Edu passes on it and I open Alpine Star, 6b+ which is very nice.  After this we go right along the crag to chase the sun a little, it’s too cold to climb in shade.  We find Xell & Bou, Meli & Albert and we like the look of a nice juggy 6b, Penumbra which we tag and bag, despite the crux move just below the anchor.

6b+   6c   6b   6b+   6b

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Posted 2012/01/15 by allend66 in Montblanc

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