2012-01-15 Siurana, Ca L’Orro   Leave a comment

Back on the gold standard, clear blue skies, climbing in T-shirts and some great, even if high in the grade routes.

I last climbed at Ca L’Orro with Marc way back when I flashed the 6b, El Trio Calavera – my then best flash, maybe 4 years ago.  I don’t remember it being difficult for the grade, but today was a little humbling.  Felipe onsights Estigues Quiet, 6b and I flash to warm up.  6b+, Er Quinki now to push the grade a little and it’s a 6b+ para hombres.  It’s a fighter, but I get it down ok.

Now we have to jump to 6c+ because there are no 6c’s here, so Ni El lute, Ni El Baquilla, A.T.C., 6c+ which shares the top anchors.  Super thin section in the middle, two really crappy half polished crimps to block while you get your feet up, then tackle the miniroof.  Felipe bailed here, and I clip it but have to rest.  Going right was a mistake, the answer is left with a awful one knuckle undercut to make a crimp at full stretch, half way up the blank slab.  No more rests, I top out and Felipe retries on a toprope.  Enjoying the sun and warmth, we have lunch.

To regain our rhythm, we have a look at a new 6b, La Chomi which is nice.  It has powerful moves to top out the overhang, but a bit of rock breakage too, so watch out below.  Immediately to its right is El Lladre De Bicicletas, 6c+ which should be upgraded to 7a.  Difficult start, thin climbing up to the overhangy roof and I can’t see how to do this – there are two crappy monofingers low down, and nothing on the slab.  I eventually used the clip stick to bypass the crux, and even then there was a thin few moves after it to make the anchors.  Definitely a 7a.  Felipe bails on trying and nicely does the 6b+ to its right, Fisura Del Silvio.  This was a great flash, a really nice route. ‘Difficult’ but neither was it a 6c.

Not counting the abandoned 6b, La Banca Guanya which so isn’t a 6b, we finish the day on the man style 6a, El Belluguet.  A 6a that has you breathing hard, it’s Ca L’Orro… quality, but no regala nada.

La Chomi, 6b

6b   6b+   6c+   6b   6c+ (7a)   6b+   6a   Photos

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Posted 2012/01/16 by allend66 in Siurana

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