2012-01-22 Siurana, Can Parasit   Leave a comment

There’s still so much work to be done in Can Parásit, I’ve been here 5 or 6 times and will need to return the same number.  Today with Rockteam™, Blai, & his Girona posse, we tick Ateva, 6a+ then move down to the orange section.  6b+, La Mala Reputación nice and reachy not giving us any problems.  Ultramemia, 6c was a really nice route and a great onsight.  Some fantastic movements and passes on it – really happy with it.  Blai traverses left to right nicely half way up, with the long reach, pushes up, and he starts to take in rope to clip, I’m paying it out, and he comes off the lower of the two right hand holds – a nice clean 4 metre fall.

Ultramemia, 6c

Looking for my first 7a onsight, – not sure how long it’ll take me payin’ dues, – but I have a look at Libertarias, 7a which has a feather in the guidebook “a soft touch”.  The first move has me hanging on the first bolt so I lower down and retry it going right instead of the more obvious left.  Made it… dodgy 2nd clip the steady up to the overhang.  Looking easy, my foot slipped off a polished nub as I try to push up.  Grrrr!  Redpoint lost.  Ascending going left, I wonder where the feather is… maybe the wind blew it away.  Some thin moves to reach the anchor.  Redpointable next time though.

With the sun getting low in the sky and the rock taking on an amber hue, Dani onsights one of my favourite climbs, Ma Mola Molt, 6c+, and he made it look easy.  Also gaining a bit of beta about the tricky bulge lower down, I saddle up for my redpoint attempt.  Things are going well, past the bulge, up to the hands free rest below the vertical top half, and not pumped.  Some great moves to get up the next few holds, a body move to the right to layback a horizontal crimp, then an arm windmill to keep balance and take a hole in a small corner… looking good.  I even make the two great holds next to where the polished waterhole is to rest and shake out before the last little 3 or 4 mtr push.  Maybe eager to get it ticked, but I push up without fully reading the line and I’m left with just a little too much time blocking and looking for the next right hand hold, and then my left hands gives out and I’m 3 metres southward bound.  Curses!  Definitely get it next time – what a gem.

Ma Mola Molt, 6c+   Ma Mola Molt, 6c+

6a+   6b+   6c   7a   6c+   Photos

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Posted 2012/01/23 by allend66 in Can Parásit, Siurana

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