2012-02-18 Arboli, L’Ermita   Leave a comment

Due to a slight snafu in the planning department, El Falcó was on the cards today.  This grand sector has some treasures for a valiant bou, but as it’s been years since I last climbed there, I couldn’t remember whether it has sun AM and shade PM or vice versa.  The contradicting guide books didn’t shed any light on the matter either.  Arriving at Arbolí, and seeing Falcó sports shadey mornings and sunny afternoons, we plan-B it up to L’Ermita for some sun drenched short routes, and a possible 7a onsight.

Classic Wolgrot, 6a was Fly’s first and I wasn’t going to do this but what the hey, it’s a nice route.  El Pulgar Sí Tu (Tom Thumb), 6b was aptly named for its thumb undercut crux.  Fly did this with infinitely more style than myself, but we’re both 2-for-2.

Seiduna, 6b+ was thin but nice, and this was the route young Eoin & myself were ‘drizzled’ off of last time I was here.  Nice onsight and flash: 3-for-3.

Trying to nail his first 6c onsight, Fly gets on La Monja, 6c.  10 hail Marys and 4 hours in the rocodrome bou, for coming off at the 2nd clip.  Though I think I wouldn’t have onsighted either and only flashed it because of Fly’s beta.

La Monja, 6c

Next up my first 7a onsight candidate, ZarpasAlvaro has this onsighted and it’s been recommended to me by many.  Fly bails at the midpoint crux after taking a telephone call from his agent (see photo below).  I try the crux and make the block / reach up to the half knuckle sloper – an awful hold, and come off.  Foiled… curses!  Going left instead of right (so avoiding the crux) was how I got up, but as Fly said, it’s nearly off route and so probably isn’t 7a.

Zarpas, 7a   Zarpas, 7a

After lunch, we try the world’s worst 6b, La Mala.  Dirty, dusty, difficult, ugly, and just plain odd, this isn’t even worth looking at.  To fix things, we jump on Kéfir, 6b+ which was interesting and a difficult flash for a 6b+.  Last climb of the day before we meet the gang in the bar, Full Equip, 6aFly onsights and I, well, I get to the anchors…

6a   6b   6b+   6c   7a   6b   6b+   6a   Photos

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Posted 2012/02/18 by allend66 in Arboli, L'Ermita

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