2012-02-19 Siurana, Can Parasit   Leave a comment

The last visit to this super sector almost gave me my much wanted redpoint of Don Xapi’s 1986 classic Ma Mola Molt, 6c+ but you’ll remember I fell at the top crux just 3 metres from the anchor.

To gear up for this we warmed up on La Viuda Negra, 6a and then we all made short work of Ultramemia, 6c myself opening it, Siscu, then Jordi cleaning it.  Class route, all agree.

I tie in for Mola and even though I’m feeling more pumpy than I should (note to self: warm up on more easier routes…) I make it to the same place as last time though I’m not confident that my fingers and forearms will hold out till the chain.  The upper crux (bend left arm and block, feet up and looong reach for the small left hand 2 finger pocket, feet up and look for the crap right hand sidepull that can’t be easily seen, then super small crimp and up) kicks my heinie AGAIN.  Siscu lowers me down from the anchors and I’m so pumped I can’t even pull the rope through.

Ma Mola Molt, 6c+   Ma Mola Molt, 6c+   Ma Mola Molt, 6c+

Siscu (middle photo, “How d’you like them guns?”) hangs at the top too, but nice work from Jordi Primo (3rd photo) who flashes it.  Que cabrón.

After lunch we pick a fight with Mr. Muss, 7a which was stronger than all three of us.  Cool down climbs of La Marabunta, 6a+ and repeated Black Widow, 6a to end a great, if frustrating session.  I wonder if next time I’ll be able to tick Mola?

6a   6c   6c+   7a  6a+   6a   Photos


Posted 2012/02/19 by allend66 in Can Parásit, Siurana

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