2012-02-26 Arbolí, El Falcó   Leave a comment

When we met in Les Borges at 10 in cold and wind, I thought Falcó would be a mistake as it has shade till midday/early afternoon.  I couldn’t have been more wrong – what an incredible day… the sector, the route quality, the weather, and after the crowd at Siurana yesterday, the fact that we were the only ones there also made things even better.

While the cousins open the classic Borinot, 6b+, 7a we warm up on the not so good easier routes at the right. Espavila Fidel, 6b and De Qué Vas? 6a+ both 18mtrs and both ‘interesting’.

Getting frustrated with the shitty guide, Siscu bou recommends me a route.  Thinking it’s a 6c I take one more than the suggested 12 draws.  Getting past the bulge roof at the 3rd clip was such a stretch I remember thinking, “Pffff, this is more like 6c+ than 6c”, but all the while quality moves and quality holds.  I make the midpoint lower-off (for ropes less than 80), but Siscu yells “Keep going!”.  Pushing up to a chain not 1 metre to my right, but the line goes a little left.  Here another crux, right hand Gaston, two thin crimps to get your feet up and then a jug.  Now out of draws and getting tired, I do a Dell special – push up without looking properly, the hands now at belly height and as my balance starts to tip me backwards I grasp for a crimp, but the fingertips don’t hold.  I was falling for so long, I remember analysing the feeling of rushing air surrounding all of my body in the weightlessness of a clean plummet.  Beautiful.  I come to rest at the next clip down, easily 8 mts, so I recover this penultimate draw to clip the bolt next to where I fell, and then onto the chain.  Oh so nearly my first 6c+ onsight, Haber Pedido Muerte is long at 40 meters and pure quality. 

Haber Pedido Muerte, 6c+   La Millor De... 6c   Borinot, 6b+, 7a

Now to the 6c I thought I had started, La Millor De… is also long and another beauty.  A nice onsight but a sting in the tail just when you think you’re at the chain.  Nailed it though!

The classic Borinot, 6b+, 7a opened by Siscu is my last climb.  Nail the first pitch easily, then the 7a, with a problem straight after the anchor.  Two thin-ish crimps then to a nice right hand pocket and a shallow two finger, then feet up as much as possible for a long reach nice deep pocket.  With another crux very soon after (2 nasty thin side crimps) this was hard work, but nice.  Again long at 38mtrs, but Siscu’s 80mtr rope does the business.

6b   6a+   6c+   6c   6b+ , 7a   Photos

Posted 2012/02/29 by allend66 in Arboli, El Falco

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