2012-04-08 Siurana, L’Herbolari   1 comment

3rd 7a redpoint… Yippee!

A nice little sector this, with still some projects on the back burner, I leap straight into a 30mtr 7a warm-up, Fisuterapía.  When I did this last week I flew past the crux first time, but then fell on the next section.  Every attempt after doing the same thing to get past the crux resulted in failure.  Same for this warm-up.  Left hand in the pocket, clip, right hand up in the vertical crack, right foot really high and pull up.  The problem was getting the feet higher and not coming up short for the left hand jug.  I top out and rethink my strategy while Fly shoots up a 6a+.

Fisuterapia, 7a

Second attempt and I decide to go for an intermediate left hand crimp to get feet higher and I get it.  It’s a bit of a block move, but I nailed it, and I lower down happy.  Dani, Rosa, Jordi & Monica are all trying various things.  Fly wants to nail Aquí Hi Ha Marro, 6c and as it’s a nice route I redpoint it again.  Dani looking strong, opens the other 7a, Cojón Prieto which I tried a while ago, and decide to get on it again.

Cojon Prieto, 7a

Lacking in style somewhat, I get on top of the ledge for the last section.  Dani said he went left up top (pockets and the stiff ball from the name), which I remember as thin, overhanging and crap, so I go right for the sloper vertical crack, which is also thin and crap, but not so overhanging.  It was a good choice and I lower down super happy with another redpoint.

Cojon Prieto, 7a   Cojon Prieto, 7a

With a sweet taste in my mouth, I stop climbing for the day and take photos.  Here’s some of the Girona gang:  Dani (Fisuterapía), Jordi (Paquín), Rosa (Arrebato) & Dani (Paquín).

Fisuterapia, 7a   La Via Del Paquin, 6b+   Arrebato, 6b+ & Via Del Paquin, 6b+

7a   7a   6c   7a   Photos

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Posted 2012/04/09 by allend66 in L'Herbolari, Siurana

One response to “2012-04-08 Siurana, L’Herbolari

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  1. congratulations bou,

    muy buen dia y buenas fotos

    see you

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