2012-04-13 Siurana, Esperó Primavera & El Pati   Leave a comment

Margalef being cut short, we’re back on the familiar: Siurana.  My to-do list still long, being as El Pati has her 2 * 7a occupied, we start on Remena Nena, 7a in Esperó Primavera.  Dan opens, takes a whipper at the crux after pausing a good 5 minutes trying to figure how to do it.  I try it.  Nice and thin, crimpy 7a climbing, just as I like it, I get to the thin move below the crux.  Staying on the rock with an overhead left thumb undercut, and a right thumb Gaston, alternately chalking up, the move to get into the crack is brilliant: I step out right, precise feet, layback, right foot up and centre and push up.  I barely stick the next hold, just short of the jug and take a 6mtr plunge.  Difficult to see from below, my fall the same as Dan’s, who redpoints on the 2nd try, as do I.  I wanted to do this on a single try, but…

What a beauty, Remena now done.  Here’s Dan just before a fall, with Ken right on Tant Se’n Fot, 6b.

Remena Nena, 7a

Over to El Pati, and the 7a still busy so the boys have opened the frankly awesome looking 7a+, Crosta PanicTom hangs just before the lower-off, Ken too taking a few long clean falls.  Dan & I both flash the brute and it is my first 7a+ flash.  The middle section is thin and crimpy, with an awkward Gaston to get to, but after that it’s jugs and long reaches all the way to the nearly out of reach chain.  Quality.

Crosta Panic, 7a+   Crosta Panic, 7a+

After this we mop up another 7a+ in L’Olla, Valga’m Déu, Quin Patir! but it’s painful and sharp and I can’t redpoint it.  A great day.

7a   7a   7a+   7a+   Photos

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Posted 2012/04/14 by allend66 in El Pati, Siurana

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